Timing belts mess up

[ekvh]

I am not positive of this, but fairly certain that the early gl1000s will move the valves even with the adjuster backed off all the way. I would
1. Loosen valves completely.
2. Remove belts
3. Recheck timing T1 and mark crank again if it's different.
4. Reattach belts making sure the crank can't/doesn't move and the marks are right on the pulleys
5 Rotate engine over slowly with plugs out. without adjusting valves yet. Any interference and you'll be pulling the heads.
6. Adjust valves and rotate slowly. Same check. You will feel resistance when the valve is climbing the ramp on the cam, but if it seems to come to a stop......not good.

If the timing gears were off a tooth it shouldn't hurt anything, but if the crank was off a tooth, that may have been too much.

Is there any chance you timed the left cam with the T2 marks?

 

[Jungo]

I don't know if things are going worst...

This is what I did:

With all valves in closed position (I backed up all valves adjusters), I asked my son to place his finger in the spark plug hole of each cylinder, while I turned the motor by hand. For each cylinder he felt a vacuum and then a pressure going out. I know this is not an effective test, because I dont know how many PSI's I got for each cylinder. (I don't have a compression tester).

But now I can't figure out what can been interfering with the crankshaft.

 

[Steve83]

If vacuum and pressure were felt in all cylinders, all valves must be closed, so they aren't bent! Woo-hoo! Did the crank turn all the way around without resistance?

Put the crank on T-1, BOTH CAM SPROCKETS "UP" and timing marks lined up perfectly, and install the belts. There are several marks on the sprockets, so make sure you're on the proper ones. With no slack in the belts and all marks lined up, it should turn freely. Then adjust the valves and check it all again.

 

[ekvh]

If it's turning over without hitting, you may be in luck. Now if you're confident the belts are spot on and the crank is right, adjust valves and rotate again. If it's hitting something you have problems. If you're not positive you have the belts and timing correct, remove belts
1. set timing to T1, check crank marks, then turn back 90 degrees.
2. rotate cam gears into position
3. rotate timing back to T1 the opposite way you turned it 90 degrees. Check crank marks.
4. Put belt on right side. You will still have to fight the slope of the cam turning the cam gear.
5. Rotate crank around to T1 again, Put belt on left side.
6. Check marks & Pray some really big prayers.
7. Rotate slowly listening for clunks. Tighten belt tensioners
8. Set valves and rotate again.
9. If you made it this far, put in plugs and fire that baby up.

 

[Jungo]

If it's hitting something you have problems.

I think I have problems... I can't rotate without interference.

 

[ekvh]

Bummer. You'll have to pull heads to see, unless someone comes up with a better idea. It rotated until you adjusted your valves,correct?

 

[dan filipi]

This doesn't make sense so far.

You had the belts off and valve adjusters loose and turned engine, got suction and compression.
This would mean ALL the valves are closed and NONE are bent.

After installing the belts you get interference.
Are you certain your installing the belts correctly with both cam pullies "UP" in the up position and timing mark on T1??

 

[backlander]

I'm camping with you Dan, this just is not all adding up to me. Free rotation without belts and vacuum and pressure when turned over means everything is ok with the heads, valves. Got to be something in the way it's being timed, we all know how confusing the marks are on these motors. I think it's being timed 180 degrees out is what is causing the problem

 

[Jungo]

The belts are not installed. I don't dare to put the belts until the engine rotates freely.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmmmm the valve dosent have to be sticking down far for it to interfere with the crank turning ..it very possible to pushing out the plug hole from sear volume of piston and slight valve opening because the end is out of sqare with the opening now ...i bet he could force pass this if he tryed too ...there no reason though its bent ...and you want to find a bent valve ...if it hangs some after the heads are off its a bent rod ...i dont see that here ...i see a slightly bent valve sticking down enough to make contact that dont take much ..

 

[dan filipi]

And you are rotating the crankshaft clockwise as viewed from the crankshaft pulley?
Remember if you rotate counter clockwise the starter clutch might lock in making it feel like a interference.

 

[Jungo]

And you are rotating the crankshaft clockwise as viewed from the crankshaft pulley?
Remember if you rotate counter clockwise the starter clutch might lock in making it feel like a interference.

Yes Dan. I'm rotating clockwise from the crankshaft pulley and it travels easily, but when it's getting closer to the T-1 mark then it stops. If I make force is like a "bump" and continue its traveling easily.

Question: Which piston should be in the "up" position when the T-1 is on mark?

 

[ekvh]

1 and 2 will be up. Unless you're positive that the belts and crank are aligned, I would backtrack and start all over. If you are trying to turn the motor over with the belts off and the timing belt marks on and the T1 on, you will have contact. It won't take much to bend a valve.

 

[joedrum]

thats it jungo its a valve or a piece of a valve ...heads off jungo your just waiting for a some answer that makes everything ok ,,theres not ...when i did the 1200 bike i just did the valves were hitting the piston in the same spot your discribing just before the t1 position but also the t2 position because the cams i use were aggressive and and hit the piston ...your only dose it on t1 cause its bent valve is just one cylinder another good sign that the damage is limited ...get with it and take the heads off you be back in buisness in no time

 

[DaveO430]

If you turned the crankshaft with the belts off and felt resistance but continued to turn it you for sure have bent valves.

 

[carl62cycles]

If you are gonna pull the heads out I would start with the right side first since in my opinion is the one that is trickier to adjust compared to the left side.Probably the problem lies on the right side(sitting on the bike) opcorn: My .02 cents

 

[joedrum]

:yahoo: seems we might have good news brewing at jungo house ...and the enterprise might be fine .... :mrgreen:

 

[mcgovern61]

:yahoo: seems we might have good news brewing at jungo house ...and the enterprise might be fine .... :mrgreen:

Where do you hear that from? (Secret society stuff???....Cool beans man!)

 

[Jungo]

Where do you hear that from? (Secret society stuff???....Cool beans man!)

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

:yahoo: seems we might have good news brewing at jungo house ...and the enterprise might be fine .... :mrgreen:

:yahoo:

 

[dan filipi]

Jungo and I have been talking on the phone over the last 2 days.

Step by step together we've been verifying timing marks, belt tension, rotating the engine, etc.
There were a few misunderstandings how some things are done and checked along the way but we've cleared those up.

At this point the belts are on and he's verified no interference of valves or anything else during hand rotation.
He did say he felt a "bump" at some time earlier but not this time so he went ahead and spun the starter. So far so good. It spins over fast with no noises.

Over the next day or 2 he's going to adjust the valves and pick up a compression tester.
Compression readings will tell us what the next step is, pull the head or start it up.

Wish him luck guys.