What did you do to your Wing today ?

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Pulled lower faring's, engine guards, exhaust to get to the oil screen. Also drained the oil and replaced the oil filter. Going to get another neutral s/w . Might as well do it while I am there. Going to sell it any way. Need the room to finish the 82.
 
Biggest accomplishment today was finding a tire valve that was metal, that had a 45, or 90 degree bend, & bolted from the top to secure. Well you would think with all the tire shops, auto parts stores, & full service places that sell tires, someone would have something with a 45 or 90 bend, even a rubber one, NONE TO BE FOUND, :shock: Went to the dealer when they finally opened, they had two more Honda 90's at $11 my cost $13+ retail, :cheeky: they were made of different metal. :headscratch: We all agreed, I was probably not the only person they broke on, as they don't just chance without a reason. :roll: Said I would pass at that price, was almost to the door & parts guy hollers at me, has found a package of 2 chrome, metal 90's, for $10+, now can finally finish up. Air in, & balancing done, said tomorrow's another day, took a shower, ate & now smell, & feel like a different person. :yes:
 
So today I started the continuation of my strip down, I'm 64 this year and have a lot of problems, but I can still swing a hammer, rubber or metal. So I got the old top rack box and mount off, took me three hours and I still had to use a grinder at one point, so that's one domed cap nut that wont be re used. Tail light off, another hell job, it is amazing what happens to threads and nuts after standing for 15 years.

My garage is 5 minutes walk away from where I live so no electricity only from a genny. So I have got as far as the rear mudguard is now off, tail light, but I can't get the top mount off the shocks. I have the domed nuts off but they are well and truly frozen on with rust. I am looking at a pair of air shocks of a GL so I might just cut them off. But I think I will try a 2 legged puller before I burn them off. The rubber looks ok so it is just the internal tube that is rusted. So if the puller doesn't work then I will see.

My new (used) frame has gone to the Blaster / powder coaters yesterday and today I took the centre stand to be done too. I have decided ala "CONDOR" on a Ivory frame, all metal work will be done in the ivory (see the picture below) with a few small exceptions. I am thinking of Chroming the the swinging arm, all the removable casings off the engine, and the front fork bottoms. The engine case I think I will paint it Cherry Black or rather powder coat the top and bottom casings. Any how when I get the frame back I will post up some pics of it.
 

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Looking good Ian :good: Don't forget with all this good surface treatment that you will need to clean back to bare metal where the earths attach or you will have some unwelcome gremlins :yes:
 
As long as the earth point bolts have clean threads to fit into you should be good electrically. Graphite on the threads couldn't hurt.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146922#p146922:qshyoyr3 said:
slabghost » Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:18 am[/url]":qshyoyr3]
As long as the earth point bolts have clean threads to fit into you should be good electrically. Graphite on the threads couldn't hurt.
I have had quite a few cases of beautifully polished and painted items not grounding on customers pride and joys, due to exemplary detailing and creating an insulation barrier. You may have an earth but it may be of poor quality and still cause performance issues through voltage drop and current restrictions.
 
Funny how EVERYTHING goes back to earth. :headscratch: Just ordered two of the last four Custom Rewind's left from K & L, & found out why no one as well as me has been able to reach Gary, aka Custom Rewind, for at least 2 or 3 years. Having some serious heart problems, & not doing very well. He made stators, for Ricks in New Hampshire, K & L, in California, & many others. Would sell them to small shops like mine for a great price, & just one, or two, wasn't an issue, seemed like a nice guy. Hope he recovers enough to feel better, even if its not enough to return to work. :salute:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146867#p146867:1s7hg2hg said:
ianstaley » Tue Apr 21, 2015 12:39 pm[/url]":1s7hg2hg]
So today I started the continuation of my strip down, I'm 64 this year and have a lot of problems, but I can still swing a hammer, rubber or metal. So I got the old top rack box and mount off, took me three hours and I still had to use a grinder at one point, so that's one domed cap nut that wont be re used. Tail light off, another hell job, it is amazing what happens to threads and nuts after standing for 15 years.

My garage is 5 minutes walk away from where I live so no electricity only from a genny. So I have got as far as the rear mudguard is now off, tail light, but I can't get the top mount off the shocks. I have the domed nuts off but they are well and truly frozen on with rust. I am looking at a pair of air shocks of a GL so I might just cut them off. But I think I will try a 2 legged puller before I burn them off. The rubber looks ok so it is just the internal tube that is rusted. So if the puller doesn't work then I will see.

My new (used) frame has gone to the Blaster / powder coaters yesterday and today I took the centre stand to be done too. I have decided ala "CONDOR" on a Ivory frame, all metal work will be done in the ivory (see the picture below) with a few small exceptions. I am thinking of Chroming the the swinging arm, all the removable casings off the engine, and the front fork bottoms. The engine case I think I will paint it Cherry Black or rather powder coat the top and bottom casings. Any how when I get the frame back I will post up some pics of it.
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That looks great! That powder can get expensive. I got the frame coated on mine, (because I already had it apart) but I am waiting for more funds to get other parts coated. I want to get the front forks, swingarm, brake calipers and wheels done in the future. If you want to go shiny, I would just polish the aluminum pieces, it is cheap to do, it just takes some elbo grease.

Also get the coaters to cover those little rubber coated clips, they can cover them, so that doesn't happen again, but maybe I am just a perfectionist. Is that powder over attached bolts too?
 
Pulled the 32 dtf out of the box. Think I'm going to use the 77 engine as the test. I can use the exhaust I picked up with the mufflers. I think this way with the engine on the bench I can use the wiring harness. Going with a plumed heating plenum. Or taking the engine that's on the floor build that one up with the 75 heads I bought on ebay and start withe a fresh engine. Lap the valves new seats and etc. Opinions needed here. :laptop:
 
Yippeeee! Finally got that :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: cer clip off and the swingarm removed on my 1100. Got the old ignition stuff removed and totally confused myself on how to install the C5 :read: in the old housing. Finally gave up and am looking for any pictures of how it should look when installed. Sooner or later I'll have it in and can join the C5 club.
 
Stan, which installation guide do you have?

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147425#p147425:3o96txvj said:
stanlw » Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:33 pm[/url]":3o96txvj]
Yippeeee! Finally got that :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: cer clip off and the swingarm removed on my 1100. Got the old ignition stuff removed and totally confused myself on how to install the C5 :read: in the old housing. Finally gave up and am looking for any pictures of how it should look when installed. Sooner or later I'll have it in and can join the C5 club.

Here is one for when I was working with Paul to get the bushing length right. These bushings were the wrong ones, so your wheel should be centered in the pick-up.

picture 5.jpg
 
It is held in place by the washers under the head of the bolts that hold the housing on. That simple... I thought I had a few shots of that too, but those pictures are gone.
 

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