Oh that looks like a nice setup. Did the sidecar allow the bike to lean independently or not?
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Anyways, back to the saga - took the Goldwing over to NAPA for some more brake fluid and Harbor Freight because all the flare nut wrenches I had were metric.
Other than the caliper end of the hose, everything was rusted, and the PB Blaster did nothing other than to contribute to the carcinogenic smoke when I applied the torch. But that's okay, because halfway through, the hose melted and popped, which then gave a nice green flame to everything. As we all know, green is a healthy color. So I'm sure the burning brake fluid offset the burning PB Blaster. At least I was doing this outside, with the hood open, and working from the wheel well, so I had pretty good ventilation.
This is where the brake line connects to the brake hose (new hose is already installed, brake line is resting at the top of the frame rail). There's literally not enough room to swing a wrench unless I want to remove the engine mount. I could barely get the nut off with a ratchet. Oh, and everything is wet because after I had the old hose loose, I sprayed down the frame rail with water to cool it down. I only torched from opposite side, and I had a wet rag on the gas line to keep it cool, but I was still concerned about the heat spreading.
Anyways, I just need to bleed the brakes again, and then (knock on wood) I'm done. But since I work tomorrow, that will probably have to wait until my weekend.
Funny thing about this truck, and I'm not sure if it's stock or if the brake lines were replaced at one point, but the brake line runs down the passenger frame rail to the rear, and the T is on the passenger side of the rear axle. Which means the driver side rear wheel is the first one that needs to be bled, since it is farthest from the master cylinder. That's the opposite from what I usually see on vehicles.
