The "Turd" is down and out(head gaskets & other stuff)

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Trying to decide if I want to open this one up and have a look-see. or just run it as is, if I can't get a good one before I'm ready to re-install the engine. Also not really sure if the dang thing has a bleed in it from the factory...some automotive advance cans do.
Decisions decisions..... :headscratch:
My plan for this weekend is to get the heads back on, and the front/rear covers also. Then the coolant crossover tubes and sech. I still need to remove the neutral safety switch and seal it, and need to clean the minor paint off of the oil level window that someone painted over.... :blush: :blush:
 
The wing vac canisters do not have a built in bleed. You can open it up and install a new diaphragm. From a car canister or make one yourself.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=165306#p165306:2un77iu0 said:
Omega Man » Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:52 pm[/url]":2un77iu0]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=165295#p165295:2un77iu0 said:
AApple » Thu Dec 31, 2015 10:53 am[/url]":2un77iu0]
and need to clean the minor paint off of the oil level window that someone painted over.... :blush: :blush:

:Doh2:

~O~


I know...Right?! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :swoon:
 
Getting closer. Got the rear cover back on, but have a new question for those that may know. When installing the pulse generators, I noticed there is an adjustment slot on one end of each generator, that will allow adjustment of the air gap between the pulse generator, and the rotor tip. Does anyone know what the spec is for this air gap? Is there one, or do you just bolt them on and go? I've looked in the Factory manual, and the Clymer manual....nothing in either of them. Just seems like there would be a min/max spec for it, since there generators are slotted on the one end....

image.php


Hoping to get the front cover back on today, also, then the heads on this weekend. Dang thing is starting to look like an engine again... :yes:
 
Most older feeler gauges had a brass 1mm one that was used for setting up the air gap.
 
I spun the crank to get the rotor tip in front of the pick-up on the generators, just to see. One was prolly just right, the other was waaaaay far apart. Soooo.....it IS possible to have one or both of the generator pick-ups too far away, which could cause some ignition issues. I'm just gunna set them where I think they should be, and let it ride, unless someone has the specs handy. :yes:

Final pics for today.






V, I'm gunna use the advance I have as is for now. If I can come up with a "good" one between now and time to install the engine, I'll swap.
 
16 to 35 thousandths on the 1200 straight out of the Honda manual, I've read 16 to 43 thousandths and 20 to 28 thousandths for the 1100 Joel. My guess would be anywhere in those ranges, the 1100 ranges supposedly came out of the Honda and Clymer manuals but I didn't see those with my own eyes.
 
Thank you kind Sirs! I thought aboot checking the 1200 manual, but dint get that far. After I saw this, I looked, and sure enough... :read:


Sounds aboot right, too. I'll set them both at .020", and leave it at that. :thanks: :hi:

Depending on what Mama has planned for today, I will be wiping the rest of the gunk off the piston tops, and installing the heads. Gotta try to finish the polishing on the valve covers and belt covers. Then, it's on to the carbs to get them cleaned up and checked out. I might actually have this turd back together in riding condition by March... :hihihi:
 
Pistons cleaned, air gap set, and heads are back on. Have not torqued the heads yet, just lightly snugged them down for now. Will torque them later, if it warms up some. I used a .019" thick part of a box flap to set the pulse generator air gap. Not good to use any kind of metal for stuff like that....that magnetism thing, don't cha know?

Anyway...pics from this mernin's session.





 

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