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One of the float bowls has been disassembled and is missing the pin to attach the floats. Also, if there are tabs on both sides of the float I will need a new one. Can I change out just one float or do all of the floats need to be changed out?
 
yes, the 2 towers are there. It seems the pin should slide through the metal bracket on the float. One side has a spot to slip the pin through but the other side does not. I don't know if its missing on the float or if it's normal. I will know once I pull another float bowl off the carb....unless one of you know?
 
Sounds like one post has broken off if you don't see the hole. They also have a tab sticking up one one side of the float. It is not for adjustment, just a stop when the float goes down. You can make a new pin easy enough, just take one from the other side to use as a guide.
 
Okay, so I cleaned up the carbs (they were actually quite clean) and installed several new o-rings and gaskets, I even found the missing pin! However, I was missing the little silver puck (robbed one off of a donor carb) but I have to find a float needle (The silver one with the viton tip) as it is definitely MIA. Once I get that part, I will reassemble the carb and engine and bench test it to make sure it runs...before I too excited about continuing on this project. Been fun so far though, fwiw.
 
Shell out for an OEM float valve is the wisdom from the best carb rebuilders. The aftermarket kit valves do not seat reliably. Definitely hook up a test tank and test the rack for leaks before re-installing. There are lots of net resources on rebuilding these carb racks, plus professional rebuilders.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2
 
okay, so last week I degreased and washed the engine. The rags fell out of the intakes so I tipped the engine over to drain out the water...or so I thought! Anyway, I felt I should remove the plugs and fire some air into the intakes and spark plug holes....eeww! Rusty water bubbled out of the intake! So, I continued to blow it out until it was dry and all the rusty water was out of there. I shot some rust inhibitor down the intakes and spark plug holes...Fluid Film to be exact. Hopefully this will keep the rust at bay until I can finish putting the engine back together and bench test it, running of course. Any other thoughts on keeping the rust at bay? I'm on the road for work for the next 3 weeks so the engine is going to sit. Thanks.
 
ATF is more stable ( heavier) just make sure you wind the engine over by hand a couple of tines to make sure all surfaces are covered. That said WD40 would probably be fine for a couple of weeks as well.
 
Hey guys...can you tell me if this belongs to the 79 Goldwing? If so, where? Can't seem to locate a spot to mount it.
 

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Here's a few pics of my "new" Goldwing in the barn with 6 years worth of dust on it. At least it stayed dry!! Am I nuts? :head bang:
 

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That housing in the first pics is the oil pickup screen.
It goes into the right side of the engine after the cover is removed.
I don't know where that wire goes though. Might not be related.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=119043#p119043:11klueft said:
dan filipi » Sun May 25, 2014 8:03 pm[/url]":11klueft]
That housing in the first pics is the oil pickup screen.
It goes into the right side of the engine after the cover is removed.
I don't know where that wire goes though. Might not be related.

Do you mean the valve cover?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=119051#p119051:2i34rnxp said:
dan filipi » Sun May 25, 2014 9:31 pm[/url]":2i34rnxp]
That screen goes in under cover #6 and connects with the oil pump pickup tube.
image.php


Link to the Gallery Clymer manual pages gallery/image_page.php?album_id=996&image_id=10670

Ahhh...gotcha! I'm going to install it right away. Thanks for the pic!! I am also missing the four fancy bolts to mount the timing belt cover....the joys of a barn find :yahoo:
 

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