GL1200 Engine Rebuild

[Rednaxs60]

Taking the heads in today to be vapor blasted, have seen some of the pieces, very nice work. Will take some pics today when I drop off the heads.

Part of the engine rebuild is cleaning the area around the engine, but getting at some wiring issues that I have been thinking about, specifically using too much wire and having duplicate wire runs. On these FI bikes there's enough wiring to start with. Used the TESA cloth tape instead of the standard vinyl tape. I can say that once on and given enough time to bond well, it does not want to come off easy, and it is messy. Still recommend using the TESA cloth tape instead of the vinyl tape.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Have been calibrating the TPS on the 1200 for a while and have gotten good at it; however, I have of late learned that I have been doing it wrong. There is a throttle stop screw that’s used and is set at the factory. In the destructions that I have read a number of times there’s a note that mentions not to adjust this. You are supposed to back off on the idle adjustment screw until the throttle stop rests on the stop screw. I have been doing the opposite. I was adjusting the stop screw until it rested up against the throttle linkage. To rectify my error, I went looking for info on how to set the stop screw, no where to be found. I’m thinking that the stop screw is set when the idle adjustment screw is no longer touching the throttle linkage. I set the stop screw in this position and reset the TPS. Put the throttle back where it was, counted the turns to “0” throttle. Be a bit before I can confirm. Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Took the heads over for vapour blasting. Most of the parts/pieces are done, he is working on the cases. Took some before and after pics of a couple of the thermostat housing. Before:

After - you can see where the aluminum has been etched from age and not being kept clean. This process does not take any of this type of finish away, but it cleans up pretty good:

Before:

After:

Did some research and the industry promotes the fact that this process is safe for close tolerance finishes/mating surfaces such as cylinder heads. We'll see how this goes.

In the meantime, progressing the removal of the last part for painting, front fairing, this also facilitates my getting at the wiring as I have some issues I want to address. One of these issues is cleaning up the OEM connectors. The connectors on the left front fairing, 3 in number need a good cleaning. I noticed over the years that when I use the turn signals there is a distinct voltage drop, and there shouldn't be. A good cleaning may correct this issue:

This side needs a cleaning, the right side is pretty good:

Will be looking at all the connectors this work period.

Cheers

 

[mcgovern61]

The vapor blast job looks great! For the connectors, I am assuming you are pulling one wire at a time to clean them? Do you have the connector tab tool to release the wires?

 

[Rednaxs60]

I have the removal tool. Will be doing one connector at a time - thinking that the connector will need a good cleaning and having wires in it will make it a challenge. Will do a wire chart for each connector. Can identify the wires in each connector.

The vapour blasting does a good job. I mentioned that if the part has any corrosion/surface imperfections these will still be there after the process. Getting all the parts back on Wednesday.

There is another product, CERAKOTE, that is receiving good reviews. It can be applied over the vapour blasting, and is apparently a one time application. Dry fit everything, no gaskets or goo, then a once over with a cleaner, then a single spray. Mask everything I don't want painted. It's self leveling, and can air dry, using the kitchen stove is not an option. I'm going to look into this further. $66.00 CDN for 1/2 pint.

Question for pidjones, you mentioned how you clean wires on another forum thread. Possible to get your recommendation? Cheers

 

[pidjones]

I just use paper towels and 91% isopropyl alcohol, clean cloth rags to follow-up if needed. Helps to reveal the wire color under the grime.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks. Looking at the ACF-50 for the rest of the bike. Good reviews and is good for electrical contacts.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Got the engine parts/pieces back today. Vapor blasting does a great job. Here are some before and after pics. Thermostat housing- before:

After:

Rear Cover - before and cleaned:

After:

You will notice that the finish differs depends on wear and tear. I was told that this process would not change the surface profile, only sand/grit blasting can do this. All that is required now is to seal and protect the finish. Going to spray with ACF-50, coming from Amazon tomorrow.

Having mentioned the above, have been researching CERAKOTE. Contacted the company in Oregon and vapor blasting smooths the surface too much for a direct application. The company did not say CERAKOTE would not adhere to a part that is vapor blasted, just that "vapor blasting is not going to give the correct profile for CERAKOTE to have excellent adhesion/durability".

With this in mind, seriously thinking of prepping the engine parts/pieces much like the plastics and heat protectors, and then applying the CERAKOTE product. If paint will adhere to a gloss finish clear coat that is scuffed with 800/1000 grit sand paper, then a grey scrubby, cleaned/degreased, I would think that doing the same with the engine pieces now that these are cleaner than I could ever get them, CERAKOTE should be a good go. I would like to preserve the finish as much as possible and have the finish look the same on all pieces if possible. Having mentioned this, perused the CERAKOTE web site and found the following.

Cerakote MC-5100 Clear - Aluminum. The info is appealing:

Cerakote Clear - Aluminum MC-5100 has been specifically engineered for performance on all common alloys of aluminum, including magnesium alloys. Common applications include polished, brushed, raw and anodized aluminum used in architectural, automotive, industrial, consumer goods and more.

Easy to apply, ready to spray, direct to aluminum
Simple Dawn Dish Soap & water preparation
Tack free in approximately 1 hour Air Cure (full cure in 24 hours)
Preserves true aluminum look while protecting against oxidation & dulling
100% Inorganic Formulation is completely UV stable. Will not yellow or haze.
Unparalleled adhesion, chemical resistance, UV stability and hydrophobic properties on all alloys of aluminum, including Magnesium. (See TDS for details)
This coating excels in outdoor applications.

*NOTE: This product does not require catalyst. This color does require a 325 Mesh Strainer (SE-277).

Here's the application guide:View attachment mc-5100-cerakote-clear-aluminum-application guide.pdf

Seems to me that this would be a good protectorant. Have an email to the Canadian distributor regarding availability of this product.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Took the casings into the local machine shop to have bearings removed and installed.

Did some electrical changes yesterday, replaced the starter solenoid wire connector - before:

After - have had this connector for a while and this work period got it installed:

Sent an email to CERAKOTE about Cerakote Clear - Aluminum MC-5100 . The company came back with "MC-5100 or MC-Clears will adhere to a vapor blasted surface". This is good news because of the quality of the product and the sealing and protectorant aspect. Have contacted the CDN distributor and it has a quart in stock. Only require a pint. Will contact the CDN distributor tomorrow. Was going to wait and see what the finish would be like in a year or two using only ACF-50, but everything is clean and degreased so now is the time to apply this product or a similar. Will still use ACF-50 as it has corrosion resistant properties.

Have taken the front fairing off the bike, and started to take the wiring apart to clean connectors. The connectors on the left side of the fairing have what looks like a white lithium grease on the connectors. The right side connectors do not have the same. Have cleaned the male connectors, female ones to be done.

Have been taking connectors apart to determine condition and most are very good considering the age.

When I do this type of electrical work, and remove electrical wiring and components from the bike, always wonder how I will ever get it back together again. Always works out, but still a bit daunting.

Cheers

 

[julimike54]

Rednaxs60 » Yesterday, 8:38 pm[/url]"]SNIP

Have taken the front fairing off the bike, and started to take the wiring apart to clean connectors. The connectors on the left side of the fairing have what looks like a white lithium grease on the connectors. The right side connectors do not have the same. Have cleaned the male connectors, female ones to be done.

SNIP
Cheers
SNIP

Found the same on the '86. I guess they were made that way, seems strange.....

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks for the insight. The grease used does nothing to enhance the connection and makes a mess of the area because grease collects crap. Wonder how many times I will be removing/installing the front fairing when I get the work done and find I have forgotten to route a wire/cable out from inside the fairing - probably many.

 

[julimike54]

I'm not so sure it's lithium, in searching for electrical connector grease I found Rheotemp 761G which is a discontinued product. It is described as an 'off white' color. The use for the grease is multiple functions but one thing that kept coming up about these greases, they reduce the force of connection in multipin connectors, along with all the other usual qualities needed for electrical connections. Thinking that may be why it was used.

This may be of interest
https://support.newgatesimms.com/choosi ... lubricant/

 

[Rednaxs60]

Interesting article. Like the myth/fact at the bottom. Thanks - it also directed me to other sites. Found a well documented YouTube video the tested various products for rust protection: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5LSxpoqcWo

Edit - still going to clean up the connectors, makes a mess in the fairing. Will use the ACF-50 sparingly to lube and protect the contacts.
Will be good for electrical contacts over the long term, these are out of the elements, but for areas that are impacted by the environment, would have to apply more often.

Think it's a good move to use CERAKOTE clear on the engine parts/pieces. Will be ordering this week, and prepping parts for the application.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Today was a let's take more apart to ensure it never goes back together again. Finished removing the components from the front fairing, removing the HONDA emblem and pinstriping tape:

The front fairing is quite light with everything out. Yesterday's task was to clean up the front fairing wiring harness connectors - 3 - on the right side. Took about an hour per connector by the time the pins were removed, cleaned and back together.

Talked with my paint guy Friday, and we have come up with a paint plan for the 1200. Being two tone requires painting in a certain order. the brown metallic will be done first with two coats of clear. If I was to do the gold metallic first would lose the brown metallic outline. Clearing the brown metallic will prevent/minimize the possibility of peeling the brown paint when I tape for the gold metallic. Two coats of clear once the gold metallic is sprayed.

The pinstriping is the wildcard. Have not been having any joy finding a suitable replacement. My paint guy has tape that will bend around the corners quite nicely, and as such, I am going to have to learn how to air brush the pinstriping. Another tool/toy to purchase and use. These older bikes are a great excuse to gather more essential :music: tools.

Tomorrow/Tuesday will be taking the front wheel off to get to the front fender, then on to some cleaning and removing pinstriping. Have the pinstripe removal process pretty well in hand. Not as onerous as I thought. Have to prep the engine parts/pieces this week.

Will be ordering the CERAKOTE clear MC-5100 this week. My timeline for the engine in and operating is end August. Painting the engine parts/pieces should be done over the next two weeks.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Continued on with removing pinstripe off the rear trunk lid - getting better as I go. Removing all the glue is a bit of a chore, but getting there. Took the emblem off the lid. The faded gold is noticeable:

Time to freshen the look.

 

[pidjones]

Marine dealers have a plastic razor blade that is very helpful in removing decals/stickers/stripes.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Took the last couple of days off, aggravated my right shoulder. Back at it today, slowly and carefully, hate an annoying pain.

Picked up some parts at the local shop for the 1200 and 1500.

Picked up the engine cases. The shop hadn't done the bearings and were using it as a filler. Took me about 1/2 hour to remove the two offensive seized bearings. Was very careful not to do any damage. Mentioned these were seized. Pic of the alt shaft bearing and oil passage plate:

You can see the corrosion on the bearing and plate. The bearing and plate for the final drive is the same. This hasn't been from the past 4 1/2 years as I have ridden it all over, and on long tours. The lineage is once again suspect. The good news is issues such as this are being addressed and the long term prognosis is getting better. The oil passage plates cleaned up nicely.

The CERAKOTE MC-5100 arrived today. Time to prep the parts for painting. Looking forward to the finished product.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Progress! Engine parts/pieces have the CERAKOTE product applied. Have to let sit for 24 hours to fully cure. Be able to start on engine assembly very soon.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Looked at the parts/pieces this morning. I like the look of the CERAKOTE finish. The product flows out nicely, and the finish depends on the surface of the part/piece. Have a lot left over so have to think of some other items that may require CERAKOTE such as the final drives. Will let the parts/pieces sit for today and start tomorrow on engine assembly. Here are a couple of pics of finished items:

 

[mcgovern61]

That is nice! :good: