GL1200 Engine Rebuild

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Rednaxs60

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Thanks. The last time it will be this clean. Have been doing further research into the CERAKOTE product line and there's a lot of good applications especially for chassis parts. I think a fresh coat on the calipers would be good, the centre stand, swing arm. The prep for the paint is to abrasive clean the parts, clean, remove all grease then paint with heat or air cure. The product information makes me think that it would be economical considering the reported longevity, especially the clears. Something to think about.

Bought a straight edge from Lee Valley, nice shop and a favorite to browse. Bought the 18" (shortest and least expensive that was available) Veritas aluminum straight edge that is 1 3/4" high and 7/16" thick, and the reference edge is machined flat to within 0.003" over the entire length:
Straight Edge.jpg
Checking the heads and cylinders IAW the manual makes this a good purchase. Did some checking of the cylinder case today, tolerance allowed is 0.004". Can't get a 0.003 feeler gauge under, expect it will be good.

Taking some time off the project to service Sonya's brother's 1800. Oil/filter change, flush brake and hydraulic clutch, inspect clutch slave for cleanliness. The brake system has more bleed points than my 1200 or 1500. 2 per caliper because of the linked brake system and need to do the TRAC cylinder as well. Learning something new.

Cheers
 

Rednaxs60

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Staring the engine assembly. Finding the parts in the various bins was a challenge. Knew I had parts/pieces, just took a bit to find them. Have most laid out on a make shift bench:
Assembly 1.jpg
Parts are going in:
Assembly 2.jpg
Reading the manual and a lot of "well that makes sense" going into this. Replaced the two bearings that were seized. Used an old method of install. Heated the case with a heat gun, bearing(s) in the freezer. Just have to tap the bearing into place. More tomorrow.
 

Rednaxs60

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Thanks. Have to come to grips with the ring compressor when the halves are joined. Any thoughts on what to use a a sealant when I join the engine cases, I'm thinking permatex.
 

Rednaxs60

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A big downer to a good start. Everything going well, transmission together, crank in and torqued. Numbers 1 and 3 pistons, number 3 piston con rod bearing cap bolts torqued. Number 1 piston con rod bearing cap bolts being torqued, one bolt comes up tight, the other one just keeps on going and going and going, won't torque to spec. Took cap off and the bolt is starting to neck - will break if keep going:
Number 1 Con Rod Bolt.jpg
You can feel and see the deformation. This is the bearing that was quite worn:
No 1 Con Rod Brg.jpg
Con rod bearing cap bolts and nuts are available, but most of the motorcycle shops are closed on a Monday. Will order tomorrow, here or on line. Will continue with other parts install, and have some ice cream to placate the disappointment. Cheers
 

mcgovern61

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Hmmm....I do not want to assume, but I hope you are replacing all of the bolts. One stretched now means the others are not far behind.
 

dan filipi

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My Bike Models
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My Bike Logs forum link
https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=218884#p218884:2e80au0o said:
Rednaxs60 » Yesterday, 8:25 am[/url]":2e80au0o]
This the stuff:Just making sure.
file.php
That’s the stuff.
Only a very thin line is needed.
 

Rednaxs60

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Gerry - you had to mention that! :ahem: I had not thought this, but you are right. Eight it is. As an aside, had a Dodge Ram 1/2 ton and the rear brake pads - right side - came apart, never had that happen before. When I went to pick up the rotors, I was asked if I wanted one or two, two of course, but I did query the question. The parts fellow mentioned that it was quite common people only replacing the one rotor. Only doing what is necessary is very common.

Thanks Dan - doing a parts run this morning.
 

Rednaxs60

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Have ordered the con rod studs and nuts from CMS in Holland. Expect these will be here next week. Included a group of water hoses for the 1500, most are molded. Making something fit is a pain.

Will be switching to paint mode for the next while. Do the black paint in the saddlebags and trunk. Do a colour coat on the insides of other pieces to smooth out the rough finish. Keps everything tidy and clean.

Have some repair work to do on a couple of body parts.

Looking for an alternative to the OEM ring compressor recommended in the service manual. Have found a clamp that may work. Sitting at Tim’s having a coffee. Will post pic when return home.

More later.
 

Rednaxs60

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Picked up a hose clamp that I think will be a good alternative to the OEM ring compressor. I have looked at the videos and read the threads of bronko37 and viewed his videos again, as well as aussigold. Both used hose clamps. Here is the one I picked up at Princess Auto:
Clamp 1.jpg
Covers the rings quite well:
Clamp 2.jpg
Clamp 3.jpg
Will use to install numbers 1 and 3 pistons after I get the new con rod bolts.
 

Rednaxs60

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Put in an on line order for the con rod bolts. Orders such as this seem to be slower of late. Switching gears to paint mode. Get the painting done now in the better weather. It'll all come together.
 

pidjones

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I'm starting an RD400 build. Trying to get some mechanical (brakes at present) things knocked out because it will be too humid to paint for several more months here. A window usually opens around late October for us.
 

Rednaxs60

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Just doing the backsides of the body panels now. Using a SEM product- Trim Black. Tried the Dupli Color equivalent, but not as good. I do prefer the Eastwood plastic restorer best but not available in town right now. Going to do some grit blasting of some parts, fender brackets and the centre stand. Have to try out the new acquisition. Pics on my 1200 paint thread.
 

Rednaxs60

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Parts are on the way. Estimated delivery 9 September. Still going to put the rebuild on hold and do the painting first because the weather is cooperating.
 

Rednaxs60

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Have time to reflect on what I am doing. Before I button up the cases, I had a good look at the insides and what has been done to this area. Installed a new primary drive chain, new con rod bolts and nuts, new shifter oil seal, two new bearings - alternator shaft and final drive shaft, new con rod and crank bearings, new crank shaft front oil seal. Should make for good engine operation.

When I ordered the con rods studs and nuts, I had to rotate the crank to take out the two installed pistons. I noticed that the pistons had more drag then when I took the engine apart, and before the new rings and cylinders were honed. You can hear the piston rings drag on the cylinder walls even with a good coating of oil. This should be good for compression and minimize/eliminate the oil smoke on start after being on the side stand. From this, I have to surmise that the smoke that happens on first start up for the day is directly related to the glazing of the cylinders, and the wearing of the rings. This smoke does go away, but would submit that this is because the engine components expand and seal the cylinders. Having mentioned this, I have no categorical data to support my theory, but it makes sense to me. I do understand that if it's not bad, and does clear up after the engine heats up, leave it alone, because finding/getting parts for these older engines is a challenge, and these engines can be a bit intimidating. Having mentioned this, if the smoke does not go away, I would submit that no amount of riding will cure the root cause of this smoking which is probably blow by. My issue is I hate the oil smoke on first start of the day - pet peeve - reminds me of the two-stroke snowmobile days - instead of seeing blue skies, it was blue smoke creating a haze!

Having mentioned the above, I would not discourage anyone from taking on an engine rebuild if there is an issue. The assembled engine is more intimidating than it actually is. The wildcard for an engine rebuild are the crank journal and con rod bearings. These cannot be predetermined until the engine cases have been split and you have access to these parts. Honda designed and made these engines such that these engines are balanced. The con rods are weighted so that if a con rod is required you should/have to source one that is the same weight code. The con rod and crank journal bearings bearings are colour coded, but there is an identifying legend in the OEM manual to determine what is required if there are no colour codes on the bearings. The only bearing that was identified in my '85 1200 engine with the colour code was the front crank journal bearing. I had to use the OEM manual to decipher what was required.

Enough reflection for this evening. Disclaimer - The thread subject matter and comments are the thoughts/theories of the author and those who comment, and in no way reflect the opinion of the forum owner or administrator(s). Thought I'd throw this in :music: :music: - think I've seen this on a few late night info shows. I definitely have too much time on my hands so to speak!

Cheers
 

Rednaxs60

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Banner day. Got my con rod bolts, 1500 engine formed hoses, and some dowel pins:
Parts Today.jpg
 
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