Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

[Denver]

Looks good to me, the marks look good as long as the crank was lined up to start, turning it through several times, after checking the crank mark, how can you be off? :read: Now setting the tension is the last thing to set, check your work,then start it up & smile. :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

I agree, take a break. This is your first time so don't rush it.
If you feel like you should redo both belts, then do it.
I can just about set the belts with my eyes closed but I've done it dozens of times, first time took me a long time so don't rush, and don't call it good until YOU feel comfortable with it.

I like your tool. That shows you're thinking it thru and that's good.

We have that same valve adjustment tutorial here in the gallery. https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/g ... e_id=13450
You can also view it at this link https://filipi.com/HondaStuff/GL1100_Val ... stment.pdf

 

[Denver]

Reread my last post, :blush: set valves before starting, after your break! :doh:

 

[made2care]

Quick question. Just to let you know I will adjust valves tomorrow. I do still have to check belt tensions and might try the weight on a small luggage scale trick. Getting back to the valves, I just start on T1 correct, so at T1 i start with the first set of specs mentioned
intake 1
exhaust 1
exhaust 3
intake 4

then rotate all the way round back again to T1 and start on
intake 2
exhaust 2 and so on

 

[chilidawg]

Yep, what you have to be aware of is, that the cams rotate twice for each engine rotation,

 

[made2care]

Is this correct?

when on TDC1 (cam up marks up) you adjust both valves on #1, the exhaust on #3 and the intake on #4 then turn the crank 360 (cam up marks facing down) and adjust both on #2, intake on #3 and exhaust on #4.

 

[chilidawg]

Forget the cam sprocket "UP" marks here, but. Yup, crazy as it may seem, that's exactly how it works!

 

[made2care]

So to ensure that #1 piston is at TDC I check the rocker arms on #1 only ? for movement. If there is movement I have #1 piston at TDC. Correct?

 

[made2care]

I think i got it. TDC on #1 cylinder will have rocker arm movement on #1 and no movement on #3 intake.

 

[joedrum]

truth is ...anytime there is free play on a valve the spring has to be completely extended and can be set ...the system for doing it can be several ,,,,,this is no where near as dangerous as getting belts right ..so just calm down and an go through the system your using ...and of corse after done turn gy hand again several times to ensure no hitting problem again then do it again ..to be sure ..your getting there

 

[Denver]

:good: opcorn:

 

[meccano]

Two words: Corbin seat. As in buy one. Best investment you can make for all-day riding - even if it's twice what you paid for the bike!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[made2care]

I took belts off in an attempt to get the left side to line up perfectly, (left was off a tooth, right was good) and was not successful . No matter what I tried, could not get it. Belts are back on now. Valves are set too.

Question on the belts. Why does the slack change in the long portion of the belt when turning to T1. So if I turn to T1 the long portion appears to be correct tension, and then when I turn it around another 360 back to T1, the same portion of that belt is now looser. Then if I turn it again to T1 it is tight again.

Another observation is at T1, The long portion of the left or right side can be tighter, then when turned 360 to T! again, the sides switch in terms of slack.

 

[slabghost]

When the valves are opening the cam has resistance so the belt will be tight. When the valves remain closed the cam has very little resistance. Set the tensioners where the belts are at least resistance.

 

[made2care]

That makes sense, thanks.

 

[mcgovern61]

With the tensioners loose, as you have already observed, the slack part of the belt changes when rotating the crank.

That is why you set the tensioner on the tight side first, rotate until T1 is around again and then tighten the other tensioner. Do not push the tensioner! The spring on the tensioner should provide the correct amount of tension on the belt when the belt is tight. Tighten the tensioner bolt then.

I hope this makes sense?

 

[made2care]

So the tight side has least resistance to that tensioner?

 

[slabghost]

Tight side is the side where it's loose on tensioner side. Loosen both bolts let the tensioner spring position it. Tighten both bolts and do the same to the other side.

 

[joedrum]

these springs are 30 yrs old i never use them for tension ... there just not the same spring as new ...i a;ways do my own setting the belt tension and never consider such old springs as a factor ..when on t1 to loose belt sould be tension with a total of 1/4" deflection ...then turn to t1 again and do other side is my method .....on my personal bike there is no springs at all on the tensioners....i just dont use them period ...im not suggesting you do that ,,,,its just the way i do mine

 

[julimike54]

joedrum » Today, 8:27 pm[/url]":37pmk8uy]
these springs are 30 yrs old i never use them for tension ... there just not the same spring as new ...i a;ways do my own setting the belt tension and never consider such old springs as a factor ..when on t1 to loose belt sould be tension with a total of 1/4" deflection ...then turn to t1 again and do other side is my method .....on my personal bike there is no springs at all on the tensioners....i just dont use them period ...im not suggesting you do that ,,,,its just the way i do mine

+1 same method, measured deflection is the mother Honda manual method :BigGrin: