My 75 starts it's return to the road

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For the tank problem I used a cut to length speedometer cable, I fed it into the tube till it stopped at the clog then cut about 3 inches extra to mount in the drill. If that doesn't work for you can also use a clutch or other heavy cable cut the same way but with the clutch cable run the drill motor in the direction of the winds of the cable, If the winding is left run the drill motor right.
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I got lucky today and located the fuel petcock and the shock adjusting tool. I will try the cable in a drill next time I drain the tank.

Tim
 
Success!!

The roto rooter trick with a cable worked to unblock the fuel feed tube. I installed the replacement petcock and now everything works and nothing leaks. I ran the engine again for a few minutes and it seems to be getting a bit better. I'm sure I'll have to do the carbs but it's nice to hear it run on 4 cylinders some of the time. I still have the master cylinder soaking in penetrating oil with the hope that I can eventually get the damn c-ring out. Next up is the rest of the brakes then the carbs.

Tim
 
Success 2!!

Today I managed to get the master cylinder apart. I guess persistence pays off. I'm going fishing with my grandson Saturday so I may not get anything done on the bike.
 
Progress

Fishing was a success. My grandson brought home 2 nice trout. Sunday I got the master cylinder rebuilt and re-installed and it pumps and doesn't leak. The bleeders on the calipers are total rust so I need to replace them. I assume I have to get Honda parts for that. I pulled the front wheel and started the cleanup process on it before I get a new tire mounted. I tilted the nose of the bike down a ways so now the level in the gas tank is working up near the filler. I have added some Formula 409 to the soda and water and it seems to help dislodge the gunk in the tank. I see about 80% bare metal now.

Tim
 
Not too much progress today. I did some cleanup on the front wheel. Now that the front is clear of the ground I notice when turning the forks from side to side there seems to be a slight detent in the straight ahead position. I've not seen this before on bikes back in the day so I'm wondering if the bearings are bad in the fork mount?

Tim
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=83678#p83678:32dkobcr said:
Ansimp » Tue Jun 04, 2013 4:25 am[/url]":32dkobcr]Sounds like there is an issue with your steering head bearings
+1
I had that with my 750. The problem showed up in wide sweeping curves. exiting the curve, it would pop into that detent and I would feel a little wiggle. Not a pleasant feeling.
 
I had something like that once after I got back from a weekend in Reno Nev. wound up being that someone had tried too steal the bike while parked it the parking garage of the hotel. They used something to break off the steering lock stop (The part welded to the neck). Found it bent out of position and hitting the steering lock. Bent it back into position and welded it in place. All is good now.
 
Electrolysis Works!!

I just posted some photos to my album showing the set up I've been using on my gas tank. The picture in the street shows where I have been pouring the solution when I change it. It looks to be about 90% done at this point. I have the bike tilted nose down without the front wheel so the level in the tank is about the same at both openings. Hopefully it will finish soon. I change the solution every 2 days. It is a dark green with lots of particles in suspension. When it comes out clean I'm done. I'm toying with the idea of reversing the polarity and using a copper anode to see if I can plate the inside of the tank with copper (no rust).

Tim
 
Hi guys, I thought I better post a report. I've been busy with a lot of other things and haven't had much time to do anything on the bike. I have been changing the bath in the tank and it's looking good. I did get the front calipers done and have the parts in hand for the rear. I plan on dropping the exhaust system tomorrow and remove the rear brake stuff and the rear wheel. Once that is all cleaned and painted and reassembled I'm down to the carbs. Wish me luck.

Tim
 
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