Oldwing starts no more

[backlander]

I would think the in line capacitor would be needed since this is a dump waste system. You have to have a one way line to dump excessive voltage from the regulator back to the frame ground. You wIll notice that it is fed on one end by the red/ whi wire but goes to ground on the other end

 

[JoeBarTeam]

@backlander
but it is not the in-line capacitor the system that decides to go to ground it is the reg i think, right?
it could also be that my two regs decide to go to ground when the engine goes over 2300u/min and i see no charge in the voltmeter. my unexperienced logic says it to me.

 

[backlander]

Back to basics, according to the test you performed in your post #34 the regulator you tested at that point was faulty and that test is per Honda Service Manual. If the other regulator tested the same, it is also faulty. At this point,I would take a known good regulator from a like bike and see if that fixed the problem or I would buy a new regulator for this bike. i would not buy a unknown regulator that you cannot see is working.

 

[dan filipi]

backlander » 9 minutes ago[/url]":hl1xshvg]
Back to basics, according to the test you performed in your post #34 the regulator you tested at that point was faulty and that test is per Honda Service Manual. If the other regulator tested the same, it is also faulty. At this point,I would take a known good regulator from a like bike and see if that fixed the problem or I would buy a new regulator for this bike. i would not buy a unknown regulator that you cannot see is working.

Agreed. Chasing tail otherwise.

 

[Ansimp]

Please just convert your bike to a Mofset RR then you don’t need sense wires and capacitors etc.

 

[JoeBarTeam]

Please just convert your bike to a Mofset RR then you don’t need sense wires and capacitors etc.

i'm thinking about it.
i've seen they have the 3 yellow wires a red and a black one. what do you recommend how to connect the red and the black one in the goldwing system. the oldwing has a black, 2 greens, 2 red/white and the 3 yellow wires. the red (from mosfet) to both red/whites or just one? the black mosfet wire where to, to black or green? or completely different?
i'm still answering mails from the dealer of the faulty new reg because i want to send it back, get my money back and they want to know if i am doing right and the thing is ok or not. i hope they don't need a week to decide.

 

[Ansimp]

3 yellow wires go to the stator ( rectifier side of unit) red is positive battery/load and Black is negative battery/load (regulated output).

 

[JoeBarTeam]

Hi Oldwing-owners
I just got my mosfet-reg with 5 connexions. 3 yellow wires, a red wire and a green wire.

How to install in my oldwing 1200 a?
the 3 yellow wires go directly to the 3 yellow wires from the alt for sure.
the green wire to earth and the red to bat is a standard as the mosfet dealer says.
But where should I connect them exactly? Should i connect the red one to the 2 red/white wires because the starter relay?
And the green one to the 2 green wires that go to the in-line capacitor and other systems of the bike or just connect it to earth?
Have you already changed your reg with a mosfet in your bike and it works? How did you with the wires?
Thank you for your help
greez
Joebarteam

 

[JoeBarTeam]

3 yellow wires go to the stator ( rectifier side of unit) red is positive battery/load and Black is negative battery/load (regulated output).

Hi again,
I hope you're not surprised i asked again about connecting the mosfet reg but i want to be really sure i do it right.
if i understand you right i should connect the reg red wire to both red/white wires of the bike? and what should i exactly do with the reg green wire?
thanks again

 

[Ansimp]

Green is the negative

 

[JoeBarTeam]

Green is the negative

this i know, but just to earth with it or connect to the original green wires in the bike?
the red one to the red/white wires or somewhere else?

 

[JoeBarTeam]

Green is the negative

this i know, but just to earth with it or connect to the original green wires in the bike?
the red one to the red/white wires or somewhere else?

I still have a "open" wire. It is the black one that goes to the stop switch and to the fuel pump relay. Connecting the mosfet reg yellow to yellow, red to red/white and green to green would let the black wire unconnected. Do i have to expect an issue at the stop switch and/or at the fuel pump relay?

 

[Ansimp]

The black wire should be the sense wire which is not required with the later style regulators. Can you post a link or info on your new “Mofset” regulator just so that we can be sure.

 

[JoeBarTeam]

hi Ansimp
That's the link i bought my mos. i live in Europe and it's a german dealer for mosfet regulators.
https://mtp-racing.de/Spannungsregler-MOSFET-FH020AA

i just found the answers to my questions in this link
https://roadstercycle.com/

" Also one other little tid bit, I have people ask me all the time that they have 2 red and 2 green (or black)  wires coming out of the old R/R and what do I do? Some bikes have 2 wires because the Manufacturer needed bigger gauge wire and decided to double up the reds and greens (or blacks) to carry more current.  But if you read my directions you'll find we don't use them anyway in an upgrade kit. The old power plug gets taped off and ty-wrapped safely away. No worries as everything will work just fine.  Just add my pos and neg battery cables to the battery and hook up the stator wires to mine and your done other than mounting the new R/R."

 

[JoeBarTeam]

thanks to the comments at roadstercycle i know now it should work. i'll do it and post results in here for all others who may be interested. thank you Ansimp for your help.
greez
joebarteam

 

[Ansimp]

:good:

 

[Rednaxs60]

The black wire in the original OEM regulator setup is a 12 VDC excite wire, turns on the regulator and provides field current for the internal engine alternator so that at start up the bike's alternator (rotor/stator) puts out voltage to the bike's electrical system immediately on start. If this was not the case there would be a gradual buildup of electrical system voltage from start until the alternator has developed full field current. One wire alternators operate this way as there is no external 12 VDC excitation to the alternator.

The OEM regulator gets the voltage sensing through the regulator output wire(s) - red/white wires - similar to a one or two wire alternator setup.

Here's a block schematic of a shunt regulator:

The unregulated input is from the bike's alternator (internal rotor/stator is the alternator). The sampling circuit takes the electrical system voltage and it is compared to the reference voltage in the comparator. The output from the comparator to the control element changes the variable resistance element in the control element, either allowing more current to flow to ground, or reducing the current flow to ground. In this regulator there is always current flowing to ground, and the control element is in parallel with the electrical load.

A series regulator such as the new one you have installed, has the control element in series with the electrical load, hence the nomenclature series regulator. The internal circuits function exactly the same except the control element either blocks the unregulated input or lets it flow to the electrical system. here is a schematic:

Tape the black wire so it cannot touch anything, and tuck away. It makes a good trigger wire for relays that you may add in the future.

Cheers

 

[JoeBarTeam]

Thank you very much Rednaxs60.
This was the answer i expected to read. It is not that i understand as an expert but as an interested non expert but i think i understand it more or less the way you wrote.

back to the issue.
i've connected the way it should be. green to - bat, red to + bat with a 30amps fuse in between, all yellow wires to the yellow wires and i tested it.

i have turned the engine from idle to 6000 u/min and it loads !!!! yes it does charge !!!
finally it works.

i do not know how it will work while riding and using lights and so on. it was too cold with the rain today. but as soon as the weather will me let, i'll do a test ride and post it here.

the same will be for the long term working quality of the mosfet reg. time will tell...

thank to all of you for your support with my issue.

i am a little proud of me getting more and more into bike tecnics.

greez
joebarteam

 

[dan filipi]

Great it’s working good now!

Can you post the before and after voltage readings? I’m curious what might have changed. :thanks:

 

[JoeBarTeam]

Great it’s working good now!

Can you post the before and after voltage readings? I’m curious what might have changed. :thanks:

not sure i understand your wish. i make a try
the original reg did not charge anymore.
the first buyed reg did only charge (14.8 volts) untill 2300u/min and nothing above. i sent it back.
the mosfet reg charges from aprox 1200u/min to 6000u/min with aprox. 13.8 volts without consumers. with all consumers aprox 13.4 volts. at idle i have 13.2 volts.
batterie voltage is 12.7 volts.
greez
joebarteam