Painting the 1500

[Rednaxs60]

Got back from my outing this morning and started into the last bit of work for this part of the project.

Mentioned that I was going to use a finishing filler to take out the one paint run I had. Never got that far because I used the razor method and you have to be extremely diligent. Used a razor blade and drew it over the paint run - my paint guy mentioned this. It worked and was a lot faster. Every so often I would lightly wet sand with 1000/1200 grit.

Did three pieces this morning. The two saddlebag doors and the trunk. Used my new $20.00 Princess Auto special paint spray gun. The gun had to be cleaned before I could use it, had internal packing grease. Cleaned up nicely. Some Info:

The paint gun did a nice job. Set at 20 to 25 PSI, had a spray pattern of 5 inch from 6 inch distance:

Could have opened up the fan a bit but it worked out.

Still intend to do a cut and polish. Will be picking up the kit tomorrow.

Here are some pics of today's painting. Can't see much but it looks good up and personal. Second pic shows some pearl:

More to follow. Cheers

 

[saganaga]

This almost inspires me to buy a paint gun.

Almost.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Picked up my cut and polish pads. Have a course, mid and fine. Will be using my Flitz polish with each:

Took the Flitz polish to my paint guy, and his opinion is that it will do nicely. Will be starting this week end. Quite a few of the pieces have been curing and hardening for at least 3 days. Going to do some discreet pieces to get used to using these disc and to see the results. Since most are quite good, will start with the medium and finish pads. Can always go back to the course, and work my way up again. Will make a determination on wet sanding when I start and depending on the finish. The finest sand paper I have is 2000 grit. Will look for a finer grit.

Edit - now have 2500 and 3000 grit paper, did a quick run into the paint shop. Cut and polish starts tomorrow.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Good day yesterday. Weather was good and I got a lot done. Cut and polish of some 22 pieces. The small ones are a challenge to be polite about it. Have 8 of the larger ones to do today. Using Norton Liquidice for the polishing compound:

It is a 1 polish - 3 Pad system. Works quite nicely. Understand the intricacies of spraying clear coat now. A larger compressor that would provide sufficient volume of air to the spray gun I initially used would have been better, but the end product and finish for a daily rider/touring bike is quite good. Buying the 0.8 mm nozzle spray gun, albeit an inexpensive one, is a much better solution and did a nice job. If there are pieces that perturb me, I can now redo the clear on those piece(s). The initial work is always the hardest.

Will be finishing off the last 8 pieces today, larger ones so it is easier. Going to measure up the area and contact a couple of companies in Ontario regarding paint protection film. One company out of Cambridge sells XPEL, the other out of Kitchener sells 3M Scotchguard. Want at least an 8 mm product. Checked prices on line and the 3M Scotchguard is less expensive. Both companies mention that its products are DIY friendly.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Finished up the last bit of cut and polish. Total number of pieces: white - 30, blue trim - 24ish. Lots of little ones.

Letting everything sit for a few more days. I need a rest from this as well. Probably start reassembly Wednesday/Thursday. Need to do another garage clean up day as well.

 

[julimike54]

Friend of a friend does the film application and when I had him do a couple spots I'd parked in the shade. The first thing he wanted done is to put the bike in the sun to make it warmer. Asked why and he stated the curves need warmth to be worked properly. That's bout all I know of film application

 

[Rednaxs60]

Called about the 3M Scotchguard PPF, and XPEL PPF. Talked to a representative from a company in Kitchener Ontario called NoChip and had a good chat. We talked about the thickness expected, I'm looking for a minimum of 8 mm, the type of products used to install the PPF, and a host of others. This company has never provided material for a GL1500. I learned a lot about the product and what I would/will have to do. Not being deterred I decided to call about the XPEL PPF supposedly located in Cambridge Ontario. Got through to the company without a problem; however, it was the same company and representative I had just talked to. We had a chuckle about this, and so much for comparison shopping.

Did find a company in the US called Auto Trim Design. This company has a product called InvisiGARD PPF and has a 35 piece kit that is computer designed and precut (no trimming required) for installation on a GL1500. This kit focuses on the areas most susceptible to bugs and road debris. Comes in at $355.00 USD. Comes in at an 8 mil (edit) thickness when installed.

The price for the PPF out of Ontario, and the one in the US is causing me to rethink my requirements. I do have 6 areas I would like to put the PPF on. First would be the side panel and front of the saddlebags where the pillion rider would have their footwear. The second place is the side panels where my knees are, hug the bike sometimes. More to consider.

 

[pidjones]

8 mm seems VERY thick to me! Do you mean 0.8 mm?

 

[Rednaxs60]

Sit corrected, 8 mil thick, my bad.

Putting together a mid project update with lessons learned. Doing it off line in Word and find it to be quite lengthy. Will finish the document then edit for length.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Finished taking care of the over spray on the trunk lid; however, got too close to the support structure and dropped the lid on the floor. Got nicked and scratched. This is the bad news, now for the good. I had already identified the trunk lid as needing attention at a future date, the future date just came sooner. Have it prepped and masked off for remedial painting tomorrow. Only the right side of the trunk lid needs base and mid coats including the side. Clear coat will go on the entire trunk lid.

Will still be able to start assembling this weekend.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Good day today although the weather was not the best, light rain all day.

Had the trunk lid prepped yesterday for a painting today, gave it a scrub with the scotch pad, and rubbing alcohol clean. Used my StartingLine finishing spray gun for the base and pearl.

For the clear coat used my new acquisition, a Sprayit 33000 LVLP 1.3 mm nozzle spray gun:

I had been researching spray guns and learned about the low volume low pressure (LVLP) spray guns. This is an inexpensive one, and there are a lot of reviews on the web regarding it. I had the air pressure at approximately 22 PSI and it worked well. It is a better fit for my small compressor. I did not notice a reduction in air pressure at the gun even when the compressor cycled. I could hear a significant difference when I used the Devilbiss FLG4 1.3 mm nozzle spray gun.

These LVLP spray guns are a good alternative when you have a small compressor. There is a Sprayit 33500 mini spray gun with a 0.8 mm nozzle that I think would work as well. I mentioned I used an inexpensive $20.00 HVLP 0.8 mm nozzle spray gun for clear coat and the finish was quite good. No reason why the Sprayit mini would not do just as well, especially for small parts/pieces.

Most LVLP spray guns are in the 1.2 mm and higher nozzle sizes. Depending on your location, these LVLP spray guns are not that expensive.

The clear coat went on very well:

The pearl is very nice:

I continued with another issue, that of painting the inside of the trunk because of over spray. I I used a SEM Prep to clean:

The interesting thing with this product is that it states on the can not to be sold to the general public, pretty toxic stuff, but does a good job. Used Dupli Color Adhesion Promoter then one coat of Eastwood Plastic Restore. Nice cleanup:

Done for the day. Tomorrow bring in the 1500 to clean, and get ready for install start on Saturday.

Had some good support from the better half. I mentioned to Sonya that this is the final painting, and her response was "are you sure?" Confidence unlimited. :hihihi:

Received a small package today, the chrome accent trim for the rear of the bike, 15 mm size. Will not have to put the old chrome back on, go with the new.

 

[mcgovern61]

That Pearl is nice! k: :yes:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks - It does give it a nice flare. Trying to keep the colour as close to original as possible. Easy to do. Base colour coat then apply the pearl, clear coat over. If I can do it first time round, anyone can. I think it is easiest if using a spray gun for the job.

Heading into town this morning to procure some 3M paint protection film. 12 inch by 84 inch piece for $50.00 CDN, not inexpensive, but this will let me do the areas that need it. Side panels and front of saddlebags where the pillion rider's boots are, and the panels by my knees. The front fender and the cowling underneath may get the remaining.

Going to look at the inside of the saddlebags for a clean and paint as well. I do like the fresh look.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Plan B came into effect. Stayed at home in the garage. Painted the inside of the saddlebags this morning. Got the bike from the side and in the garage for some cleaning before the pretty parts/pieces go on:

Thankfully the bike has reverse, wouldn't want to push this thing to far backwards. Nice to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Did some cleaning of the engine underside, have a very small oil leak I need to find. It's annoying at best.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Did today what I mentioned I'd do yesterday. Visited with Jim, my paint guy, this morning. Bought the paint protection film (PPF) I needed and took in one of the last pieces I painted, trunk lid.

Have a blemish on the top of the trunk lid, small strip of paint crazing/wrinkling:

Did some research on this issue and it is a paint reaction to something, lots of possibilities, but is a bit unsightly. Discussed the remedial action with Jim and his recommendation is to not to get rid of it, but to cover it up. To go after and remove it can cause issues as well. It is encapsulated in the finish and will not change from what it is. Jim's recommendation is to wet sand with 600 grit in the area to be redone, the rest of the lid will be a wet sand with 1000 grit.

In the affected area, Jim's recommendation is to spray a leveling base coat (probably haven't got the terminology correct), neutral colour and while still wet, apply the colour base coat. Let the colour coat flash then apply a second coat of the leveling base coat and while wet spray the mid coat of pearl with as many coats as needed to get the pearl affect. Once this flashes, apply a tack coat of clear and a second wet coat of clear to the entire lid. This should mask the defect and be a good finish.

Took the front wheel off and gave it its 25 year cleaning:

Took about 4 hours in total. Took the lazer chrome accent pieces off:

Not going back on. Used the Norton polishing liquid to start, followed up with the Flitz polish, then used Flitz Protectorant:

Good for a lot of different products:

Cleaning up where the front fender is. Going to install the front fender parts before the wheel goes back on. First item on the list for tomorrow.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Have been perusing the net for shoulder washers. Always loosing these. Found a company in Oregon that has 6 and 8 mm diameter shoulder washers. Packages of 25, but when you have MBS (multiple bike syndrome) never have enough. Here is the web site: https://www.speedmotoco.com/Default.asp

 

[Rednaxs60]

PROGRESS!! :Egyptian: :Egyptian:

Starting to put parts/pieces on instead of having them off and working on them:

Even though I put all the nuts/bolts and such in Ziploc bags, remembering what I did is a challenge.

Last painting to be done tomorrow. Ties up the garage for a few hours. It'll be worth it.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

More work done to get the 1500 back on the road. Parts going on and looking good:

Taking my time. Cleaning as I go. Have some paint residue from the spraying that has settled on some items. Using the Norton polishing compound to remove this, works well and leaves no swirl marks. Spent the last two nights fitting the saddlebag lids/doors (?). When I took them apart did not pay attention to how these fit at the time. Noticed that there is a lot of pearl showing through, think I have more pearl now then fro the factory finish, this is a good thing. Putting LED strip lighting in the saddlebag and trunk side lights, evening work project. Doing this because the small bulbs that are fitted are hard to find, a couple have stopped working and I like the look of the LED strip lighting.

Overcast and wet weather coming in over the next two days. Have to keep busy. Cheers

 

[julimike54]

Rednaxs60 » April 24th, 2020, 7:37 pm[/url]":tuehf92u]
SNIP

Took the front wheel off and gave it its 25 year cleaning:View attachment 3Took about 4 hours in total. Took the lazer chrome accent pieces off:Not going back on. Used the Norton polishing liquid to start, followed up with the Flitz polish, then used Flitz Protectorant:View attachment 2Good for a lot of different products:View attachment 1

SNIP

Sorry if this is taking it off topic. I'm curious if you're familiar with Semichrome polish and if so how you'd rate their effectiveness. I have wheels that are black powder coat with raw aluminium accents. They're a pain going after one at a time. I was introduced to Semichrome back when I had my Norton and everyone swore it was the best for a high polish.

If this should be a new post maybe an admin can fix it?

 

[Rednaxs60]

Not familiar with semichrome polish, but have used autosol. Have all sorts of different polishes on hand, but going to consolidate and stay with Flitz and this Norton product. Meguiars has the Back to Black that I have used as well.