The full story of the Hooch build

[joedrum]

oh my fellers ..ive totally fe;; out ssheesh

 

[joedrum]

hooches motor is in ...was feeling rough but struggled along......... hmmmm wont be long now to test the stator :mrgreen:

 

[Ansimp]

Looking mighty fine. Fingers crossed for the charging circuit!

 

[joedrum]

yes todat ihope to try it still lots of work to do ive rip up things everywhere in the wiring to have to redo ....thanks all my fingers are crossed too been a hard battle in this dark corner of the doghouse

 

[Ansimp]

Well you certainly seem to be bringing some light to that dark corner of the doghouse.

 

[slabghost]

Progress so far is looking good. Be sure to tighten any connections that feel loose. I can't wait to see this bike in person.

 

[joedrum]

sheesh no success yet now the bike is not running again button out ..after starting on starter dies instantly ....like I havnt been here and it seems to only run on two cylinders at the moment .....this may be just not gas there yet spark seemed huge when I checked it ....but unsure what causing ignition failure ...maybe relay is not working anyway back out to try and fix it ......

 

[dan filipi]

Maybe should have another look at post #66, Joe? (The post right before your last one )

 

[Ansimp]

Is it that loose Nut again? :smilie_happy:

 

[joedrum]

well had a few connection my ham hands loosen up and got the coils working good both broken wire on coil itself ...im sure from me tugging on it ....and the ballist splice was pulled apart too that caused the bike to stop when button was released ....

but the big thing is .....ITS STILL NOT CHARGING AT ALL ....battery got weak enough already to start breaking up ignition at higher rpm sheeesh .....

im charging the battery now ...to do more testing ....Im lost as of the moment ....the only thing not changed is the rotor .....if its a bad rotor im really up the creek without a paddle ...still hoping to find something ...

 

[Ansimp]

Do the stator ac volt test on the 3 phase wires whilst the bike is running. As you have tested the stator for broken circuits/ ground faults it would be rotor magnetic field. Make sure that you have good connections between rectifier/regulator and battery/ ground. I use a 55w headlight bulb as a high current (4.5 amp) test light to root out ad wiring or connections.

 

[joedrum]

well this is about as bad as it gets ....ive checked all the connections .... there good ...im going to go over the wiring of rectifier one more time ..it checked out nice too by the tester ..but its all individually wired now connector gone ....maybe ive got that crossed up somehow

 

[Ansimp]

Post some photos of your connections Joe.

 

[joedrum]

I will it s rather just pluged together and not touching at the moment it has two greens and to two reds ...and the three yellows ...I don't see how you can mess that up ...but the red and greens yes maybe

 

[Ansimp]

Just make sure that you have good power on the red and greens, use the headlamp test light. You will have to separate the yellow phase wires to do the ac run test after you have tested the red and green supply.

 

[joedrum]

ive tested the red and green wires continuity and resistance and current all seem fine ....its just a matter weather reds can be switched there at the diode and greens to as far as that gose I guess ....

I did shoot the meter one down from 20volts and it seemed to register some charging there but would also drop and go back up at times to 14 volts and this was at idle mostly and the cooling fan was on .....when I turn the bike off and measure battery on this lower setting it registered 12 volt.1 so I can only assume something was happening in the charging system to the plus side ...

hmmmm nice shot on how close the motor and frame are on hooch .....

 

[backlander]

I'm going out on a limb here but sounds like your regulator is flaking out on you for some reason. Did you use genuine Honda Moly lube getting that motor past that frame? :headscratch: :mrgreen:

 

[Ansimp]

I am pretty sure from memory Joe that the red and green wires are common points. Just make sure you have current available at those wires. If you don't have the headlight test lamp bare some light gauge wire and separate the stands so you only have a couple to melt and short out between the red and green briefly. It should spark and melt the fine wire, don't do it too long or you may blow your main fuse. You can separate one red wire then one green wire and test on the rectifier end if they are a common point as I think.

 

[Ansimp]

I also wondered if you had done the stator test at the rectifier which would check all your connections down to the stator. Once you have done that you can do the AC running test on the stator and rotor.

 

[Ansimp]

Also Joe if your voltage reading was up over 14v at the rectifier but not at the battery that is telling me that we have a bad connection back to the battery or the charging circuit is weak. Do the high current test at the green and red wires to prove if we have a good connection back to the battery.