The full story of the Hooch build

[joedrum]

hmmm I was getting the higher reading at the battery and when off it read 12 volts at the battery so this was all the way home on that's part ...I don't have anything but a hidelight maybe arnt they 35 watts

 

[Ansimp]

That will work 35w is a 3amp draw, more wattage is more current.

 

[Ansimp]

Joe, AlaskaWing put up a link to a workshop manual and I was able to confirm that the 2 greens and reds are joined together in the wiring harness so it doesn't matter which green goes to green or which red goes to red.

 

[joedrum]

thanks ansimp igot a couple mor things to try and if it don't work ...iguess out it comes again ...I got off track when the stators were the same ...I should have stay with it to check for rotor switch also ...im leaning towards taking rotor off 1100 motor and see if it will fit a 1200 86 I have inside the doghouse ...omly thing left to check and do with parts on hand

 

[Ansimp]

If air gap is too great that would reduce performance, so measure everything carefully.

 

[joedrum]

will do im not whip yet but close ...fight really getting rough now ...im good in this zone ...that dosnt mean smart either just a fighter till I can get where I want want to be ....

 

[Mad Dog Tannen]

Mmm electrical issues, just be happy you are not working on a Ford lol

I am about to dive into some wiring soon too. It sure can get tedious!

Good luck.

 

[joedrum]

okay did the hot test on stator while running ...with the meter ...between stator leads disconnected from wiring harnest ...it was mostly 55 watts ...don't think I saw 60 at anytime ...but would drop here too like in the 45to 48 zone and sometimes in the 25 zone just for a flash ....it was mostly in the 55 zone though ....that's what I got so far today ....im thinking this takes the rec and voltage regulator out of it ...sounds like the stator did make a difference but not sure its any cure entirely with it droping out like its doing ...lets say 30% of the time maybe less ....hmmmmm

 

[joedrum]

I think this proves the rotor is suspect bigtime ..... :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :sensored:

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm should be volts not watts ...sheeesh

 

[backlander]

That's weird, with it disconnected like that, volts should be pretty stable on all three phases. Does it drop out on one particular phase or does it drop out on all three at different times?

 

[dan filipi]

backlander » Thu May 23, 2013 11:01 am[/url]":27fniw64]That's weird, with it disconnected like that, volts should be pretty stable on all three phases. Does it drop out on one particular phase or does it drop out on all three at different times?

Yeah good point.

Are you sure you have a good connection to the meter probes?
I'm starting to suspect your meter might be junk, just a thought.

 

[joedrum]

ive been wanting to adjust this meter with my hammer ....okay now im going on feel and sound ......seems that when the when I have the voltage reg in from the 79 mongrel in place of the 77 im getting a smoother running motor even when the fan is on to cool it and when rev it don't suffer ignition break up ...so im going to gamble and say its better and the the meter is garbage and try it ....one ride all it takes to see if the gamble is good ...im so close to having it ready to ride ...why not try it .... :headscratch: :beg:

 

[Ansimp]

Is the 25v ac zone at idle? Or could it be just bad momentary connection with your volt meter? I believe that your stator is good and more than likely the rotor as well. Try a good regulator/ rectifier and see. To convince yourself about the stator /rotor you could make a bridge rectifier for the three phase leads and see if it charges then. Remember it will over charge without a regulator circuit

 

[joedrum]

I thought of that bridge but im done trying stuff I want to test it its running right now ...before if it idle long it would start breaking down on the ignition when rev and when fan is on so im testing it again ...thanks tony for all the help I needed the extra support and info

 

[joedrum]

this is the way I think all connectors should work

no sense getting to crazy right now ..just tape and safe for testing

now that I changed the output drive so I can use the c clip the fact that the distance is narrowed now and c clip pliers are not fitting ...everything smooth so far :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

Joe, you crack me up! :smilie_happy:

 

[backlander]

Just another day in the dog house, right joe. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[joedrum]

well its all together but its not looking good ....I brought out so I could work in some light ....

sheesh its a same I cant get this thin to charge ..... :headscratch:

 

[backlander]

You may have already tried this Joe but I thought I would run it by you. With a meter check the output voltage of the regulator, the red/white wires that carry the juice to the battery. The black wire (sensing wire)can be temporary direct connected to battery, if it shows battery receiving a charge you know the regulator is toast. Can't leave it direct connected, it could cause a fire. It can only be the reg or the stator, hopefully not the stator. One other thought, I seem to remember you said the ignition switch went south on you, the black wire I think is run thru the ignition switch so maybe its not sending the right info to the regulator. Just my thoughts. Theres a mod that removes the black wire from the ignition circuit with the use of a relay.