The plan is to turn 140,000 into 50,000

[chilidawg]

I'll admit it, the first attempt at marriage didn't work out, it was my fault, In my eagerness to mate male and female parts I left myself very little room to manhouver and it turned into a premature failure! Alright, okay, enough with the double entondre's already!

Here's what happened.

At the first opportunity I had, I connected the final drive, ran in really smoothly, I didn't realize at the time that it would only limit the rotation of the frame into position to connect the mounting bolts, due to the limited mobility of the "U" joint.

So now I'm waiting on a my buddy Karl for some knowledgeable/experienced (he's done it as many times as I have) help, to turn this thing into a brief separation instead of what could be a very ugly divorce.

 

[joedrum]

LOL ...

 

[chilidawg]

Well, the marriage is now properly and correctly consumated!

Karly showed up and with some diffuclty (I've never before had to worry about scratching paint when installing a motor before,) we disconnected the drive and where able to locate both side engine mounts including the left side frame member.

I honestly believe now, that I have a starting point, with which I can work from.

 

[chilidawg]

Well I think I'm back fella's, had some health problems lately that sidelined me for a while, collapsed lung followed by a bout of flu but I didn't die so it looks like the build is back on.

Karly came back by, dragged me out of my sickly malaise and we got a bunch of stuff done.

Got it placed on a trolley jack, that makes all the difference, and the head bearing races are in place and the bottom set of bearings on the triple tree, now between us we did manage to forget the dust cover for it, so now I'm considering whether to cut it back off and fix that or just say F it, it's likely to see me out.

Also have another question, the bottom outer race is in flush with the head flange, but it appears to have about an 1/8th of an inch to go before it sits against the stop step up inside the head. Will it pull up when I tighten it down from the top or should I keep hammering on it? What do y'all think?

 

[dan filipi]

chilidawg » 25 minutes ago[/url]":2f7w7ncy]


Well I think I'm back fella's, had some health problems lately that sidelined me for a while, collapsed lung followed by a bout of flu but I didn't die so it looks like the build is back on.

Karly came back by, dragged me out of my sickly malaise and we got a bunch of stuff done.

Got it placed on a trolley jack, that makes all the difference, and the head bearing races are in place and the bottom set of bearings on the triple tree, now between us we did manage to forget the dust cover for it, so now I'm considering whether to cut it back off and fix that or just say F it, it's likely to see me out.

Also have another question, the bottom outer race is in flush with the head flange, but it appears to have about an 1/8th of an inch to go before it sits against the stop step up inside the head. Will it pull up when I tighten it down from the top or should I keep hammering on it? What do y'all think?

Sorry, I can’t help here. I’ve never done these bearings or seals.

Good to hear you’re feeling better.

 

[julimike54]

I don't know for sure but the race not being against the stop, seems it would allow (with use) the race to move further in, as the bearing will be pounding on the race. Does the manual mention anything?

Glad you're back with the living!

 

[pidjones]

On my GL1000 and '79 CB750F, there were two steps. One permited a tool to purchase on the race to drive it out. I saved my old races to use as drivers to tap the new ones in. The lower just caught in the head, but a light tap on the side knocked it out.
Also, it is pretty evident if you just put the syem with rollers up through it. The seal should reach the head.

 

[chilidawg]

Looking at the old frame, it's obvious that right now it's wrong. I just ordered me a 3/16' drifting tool, I figured it would do the job of moving it where it needs to be, let's see!

 

[chilidawg]

Hey, the drifting tool worked! the bottom race is now exactly where it needs to be.

Now I've just got to make the decision as to whether or not cut off the new rollers off of the forks, buy a new set and install the seal this time.

Amongst a whole lot of other stuff too of course. My next step I think is to get the wiring harness on, I've done the best I think I can with it, that is, soften it up some with Vaseline and wrap it in Gorilla tape.

It is gonna be the only part on this bike that will be of the original mileage, but right now it is so custom, C5 plus automotive fuses plus a whole bunch of other improvements, it cant be just replaced with a newer one even if it was available.

 

[pidjones]

On the lower race and rollers, Yes, you should cut them off and install the seal first. It not only keeps grease in, it keeps everything else out. I use a thin cutoff wheel on a Dremel and note that when I get close to cutting through, it goes "tink" and is free. Save the inner race you cut off to drive the new one on, but install the seal first.

 

[chilidawg]

pidjones » Mon May 20, 2019 7:49 am[/url]":3agryc22]
That's the way mine came off. Save the old races to tap the new ones on and DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE DUST SEAL ON FIRST!

Hey, do you ever get Deja Vu?

You even wrote it in all caps and I still forgot.

I won't be forgetting next time. A $35 lesson learned.

 

[pidjones]

Luckly, my first one had just started when I realized the omission. It tapped off Okay to permit seal install.

 

[chilidawg]

So I've been trying for 2 days to get this wiring harness into place, you'd think it was easy wouldn't ya?

All those starting points, parts that bolt straight to the frame, maybe it's because I've made it thicker with all the gorrilla tape, and hence, a little less supple.

But it, sure as $#!t, ain't just laying into place, sorry fella's I'm just venting, my old buddy Percy will get it done. Perseverance! :BigGrin:

 

[joedrum]

Hang tough Chillidawg...

 

[pidjones]

On my 1000 I find getting past the tank easier with the rear bolt removed and tank pushed against opposite rail. To run under the shelter frame, remove it.

 

[chilidawg]

So I stepped back and thought about it a bit, most of my assumptions where coming not taking a blind bit of notice, or forgetting, how it came apart.

1. I didn't realize how much of it hung off the front, in front of the steering head.

2. I should be aware that the installation of other parts will dictate it's final location.

3. It's wire, I can cut and paste it wherever I like.

I think I'm going for the gas tank next. Nope! The final drive connection is next, then the gas tank.

 

[chilidawg]

I don't know why, but a lot of stuff on this project seems to have taken a whole bunch of tries and loads of time lately.

Specifically, connecting the motor to the prop shaft and installing the circlip and fitting the lower steering head bearing properly.

For some reason it took a whole day just to get the connecting sleeve just to slide onto the gearbox shaft, no explanation at all, suddenly it just slipped on, I guess you've just got to hold your mouth in the right position! Then there was the circlip, now with this, I knew I didn't want to damage the rubber boot so I don't know if I was just pussyfooting around it too much but I managed to bend 3 circlips out of shape with the numerous attempts, because all you hear is the ting, ting, ding, clatter of it bouncing around the shop, each time trying to find it again in the furthest reaches of the workspace, finally got it on by not giving a hoot how much damage I did to the rubber boot. I guess I'll just have to fix that someday at a later date, there's about a 1 inch tear on the most visible, right side of it.

As for the steering head bearing, Y'all know I put the first one on without the seal, well I cut it back off and bought a new set. Well that didn't go so well either, while hitting it the whole clamping system that I had in place totally collapsed and it ended up going on crooked and got stuck, so after cutting that one off and buying another set, this time I set up a better clamping system and thought a lot more about how I was gonna accomplish this, realized what I needed was a piece of tube to use as a punch, I did some accurate measuring and found that what I needed was a 12" tube, an inch & an 1/8 ID and no bigger than an inch & a 1/4 OD. I went looking and everything I came up with was all to thick walled or too flimsy to use, so this week I just thought I'd have a look in the back of the shop at work I went through all the offcuts and trash pipe that was there and no luck, until I saw this box full of nail gun ammo and for some reason started to rummage through it, and wouldn't you know it, there it was, "the holy fricking grail" a piece of inch and a 1/4 OD copper plumbing pipe, 16 inches long. I got it home, cut it down and now it's finally done!

 

[pidjones]

Why didn't you just tap it on with the old race? Worked so far (3 heads) for me.

 

[joedrum]

Oh the things that can happen can be a huge problem ....from bike to bike things can be entirely different....just keep tugging through it ... the way the output shaft is done defies all common sense ...it wasn’t to the 1200 bikes that the finally made something like the engineers had a brain ...not only is the C clip hard to put on ..the whole idea the set up piece is in a state neutral tension allows it to hammer the output shaft violently ...cause it ability to deform the output shaft greatly over a set up that is tension with a spring like the 1200 shaft ...actually on both sides of the output shaft on the motor ...in farming I’ve seen strait splines actually distorted in a slight curve ..witch will happen long before it would ever like snap into ....this condition can make the connecting piece one spot it will ever go on ...and if your dealing with pieces that were never together before like they don’t fit period ...just saying this cause in some situations this can be a huge problem and it seems you were up against that ...glad you got through it ...after the bike works in a bit I’d say the next time the output will probably be better ...just guessing though ...can’t speak much on steering bearing ..to this day and all the bikes I’ve had ..I’ve never changed one yet ...anyway just keep plugging away with it ...

 

[chilidawg]

pidjones » Wed Jan 29, 2020 9:40 pm[/url]":ihtwmpk5]
Why didn't you just tap it on with the old race? Worked so far (3 heads) for me.

Well that's kinda how this whole thing started, having never done it before that was my original plan, but then tapping it just seemed to serve as a way to cool off the bearing and lose the advantage of expanded metal, I did try to heed your advice, but ended up hitting a cold bearing with a club hammer and putting little divots in the stem, that's when I realized the seal was not on. So knowing I had to cut it off anyhow and not wanting to bend the stem, I ended up down this road.

That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it! :wave:

I appreciate all y'alls input as usual. Thanks.