the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts

[dan filipi]

Unless you have a machined perfect fit on the flanges to head, I'd expect leaks there without gaskets. Even at that, I use the thicker gasket sheet coated with aviation cement for a bit extra assurance.

 

[chuck c]

slabghost » Mon Jul 13, 2015 9:52 am[/url]":276es7wk]
Try using a cereal box to make gaskets, RTV sealant isn't good in contact with gasoline.

Silicone is. Any reason I can't use that?

 

[slabghost]

Not that I'm aware of. However I don't know how much heat it can take or how it reacts to fuel. You'd be better off with gaskets. Use the cereal box or heavy gasket material or cork. Whatever you like. Sealant alone I wouldn't trust.

 

[chuck c]

dan filipi » Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:00 am[/url]":2dds1swt]
Unless you have a machined perfect fit on the flanges to head, I'd expect leaks there without gaskets. Even at that, I use the thicker gasket sheet coated with aviation cement for a bit extra assurance.

The flanges I used are rubber carb mount flanges. They have a raised lip to press into the head. I can't imagine a leak there. Somewhere in my PVC is possible but I was very careful. The carb is set on its flange with a gasket and adhesive because I know it wasn't perfect. A leak is possible between the rubber flanges and the PVC. I will recheck those.

 

[Dusterdude]

Ill be honest,i never thought my pvc was going to get finished,much less work,but it works well,keep after it.you'll get it

 

[joedrum]

yes it has a wavy idle ...id say it coming from carb mostly ...i bet the manifold is not leaking ....2" is a very small shoot down in the 5 way ...3" dose sound better... but its far from saying this is cause of wavy idle...stock carbs are way down in passage size in the circuts they have ..seems car carbs are complete opposite ...seems car carbs can flow a lot of gas at idle then quickly starve a bit ..then repeat ...dialing in carb is simply matching need and flow though out rpm zone ....

for me i put fan on bike and idle it ..for awhile making sure my extra cooling is good enough ....see how the plugs get at idle ... keep from reving to much ... when off it seems you have to clear the idle circut quite a bit ......E-choke and all need defeated to do this jetting right ....dont mean you have to trash it ..just not working while jetting ...from here move up the rpm zone ...im sure this carb job is capable of some good running it appears to me opcorn:

 

[dan filipi]

I completely agree with joe to get the idle good first then move up. Having a working choke should be the last step.

 

[dkl]

Put on the air Filter !!!!!! Then adjust it again...is the electric choke hooked up ????

 

[chuck c]

The electric choke does work. In that video it's warmed up enough to run without it. The air filter doesn't seem to make any difference. Heeeeeey it just hit me that maybe the air filter isn't restrictive enough because it has no effect. I wonder if covering part of it would make a difference.

 

[dkl]

Is it the 34-3 pict ?? is vacuum line on and others capped

 

[chuck c]

dkl » Wed Jul 15, 2015 10:15 pm[/url]":22gzjtti]
Is it the 34-3 pict ?? is vacuum line on and others capped

Yup.

 

[slabghost]

Single carb doesn't need any restriction in the air filter When it get's restricted (dirty) your mileage will drop and mixture will be rich. Only the stock cv carbs need a bit of vacuum at the filter to lift the slides.

 

[dkl]

If it was mine this is what I would do.........With it running like it is, I would spray starter fluid (or something) at every joint and attachment point for the manifold, to rule out air leaks. I then would hook up electric choke. Next google adjustment for the 34-3, follow initial set-up of carb exactly step by step.......Put on Air Filter, At the time you crank it to start final adjustment, the rpm idle to achieve is 1050. Again follow adjustment instructions,,,,,problem usually is we think we know everything and we complicate things.....Ur manifold should work fine and is not the problem,,,,, It is tricky to get it right, but if the screws are not flattened out, it will dial in.

 

[chuck c]

I've had that copy of how to set a Solex idle for nearly a year. I have John Muir's great book on VWs too. All the instructions start with it idling and warm. It doesn't help if it won't idle at all. Now I've gotten it to stay running long enough to get hot and managed to get it to the rocky just about to stall 1000-1500 range and somethings not right. It doesn't even sound good. I'm going to check the timing and spark again.

 

[slabghost]

chuck c » Thu Jul 16, 2015 3:33 pm[/url]":3rmfgcud]
I've had that copy of how to set a Solex idle for nearly a year. I have John Muir's great book on VWs too. All the instructions start with it idling and warm. It doesn't help if it won't idle at all. Now I've gotten it to stay running long enough to get hot and managed to get it to the rocky just about to stall 1000-1500 range and somethings not right. It doesn't even sound good. I'm going to check the timing and spark again.

Check the plugs are clean and gapped right too.

 

[dan filipi]

Good point about the plugs. In all the futzing I did I found later a couple plugs had carbon fouled and new plugs made a difference.

 

[westgl]

I just went through all the posts on this thread i am liking the results, and the deletion of the oem manifolds.

Could you post a complete Parts List, that is all on one page, Thanks

This would be a nice setup, I would like to try on my 84' GL1200, as i have a little time currently to do some work.

 

[westgl]

Question: Chuck C

Did you cut any of the 45's shorter on one side before going into the 5 way/position Manifold?

Looks like one side has been shortened?

What ID was used on that 5 position manifold? was it 1".00 ID like the rest?

 

[westgl]

My thought was the 1" PVC pipe used for the tube runners to each Cylinder, has a 1/8" wall thickness on each side or a 1/4" overall added to the ID.

Well a 1/4" roughly in a UN-precise manufacturing process.

So 1" ID tube would yield a 1-1/4" OD, for the tube add another 1/4" to the OD for the OD of the 45, Now you have 1-1/2" OD, and you could Glue the 45 directly into a 1-1/2" ID 5 way Manifold.

If you were to Not cut the 45's down and glue those two 45's directly into a 1-1/2" id 5 position Manifold, and the other two positions could have a couple of short piece's of 1-1/4" ID tube Glued inside to reduce it down to the 1" ID tubes, Outside diameter, then add a taper of the ID of the 1.00" tube on the two sides here would be a good choice.

This would add a little to your manifold Volume, that you mentioned in a earlier post.

Im just thinking Out loud

You may not gain enough for this to be worth while, just throwing it out there.

I have a few single barrel carbs, a couple of Weber 34 ICT's, not clones, that are in very good condition, and a new in the box solex 30pict 1 round float bowl, that are waiting for a home, that I would like to use, before they start to Mold, and loose their shelf life, this Manifold looks very promising.

 

[chuck c]

westgl » Sun Sep 27, 2015 3:45 pm[/url]"]Question: Chuck C

Did you cut any of the 45's shorter on one side before going into the 5 way/position Manifold?

Yes. 2 of them needed to be shortened. The drawing and parts list has everything, it should be back a couple pages in this thread.