Barn Find

[Def]

I adjusted the air/fuel screws and adjusted the idle including a carb sych as per slabghosts message. The bike still pops and farts when decelerating. I will rebuild the air cutoff valve and was thinking of installing new copper washers on the mufflers. Other than that, is there anything else that could be causing the backfiring? Would like to get the bike running nicely, soon.

 

[slabghost]

Points could be slightly out of time on one side. You may want to look close at the timing. :good:

 

[Def]

Def » Sun May 25, 2014 7:34 pm[/url]":1k05mnct]
Hey guys...can you tell me if this belongs to the 79 Goldwing? If so, where? Can't seem to locate a spot to mount it.

Okay, so I have figured out where the wire thing in the pics goes. It attaches to the chain that dangles from the gas cap. Mine has a ring at the end of it that attaches to the wire. The wire connects the gas cap to the tank as a safety feature so us wingdingers don't misplace our gas cap after refuelling. Anyway, thought I'd share and solve a mystery, lol.

 

[slabghost]

I probably would have just tossed the wire never figuring it out. Thanks for clearing that up. How is the bike running now?

 

[pidjones]

Part of the oil pickup assembly (Case, oil strainer) that mounts behind the plate on the right lower side of the motor. Hope the engine is not in the frame, as it is much easier if not. Large single tube in first to mate with pickup tube, the pins ride in indents in the cover.

 

[Def]

The bike is slowly beginning to run better with every little thing I do to it...which is encouraging. Today, I re-gapped the sparkplugs and lubed up the plug connections, fixed a gas leak coming from the hose that goes into the fuel pump. It also leaked fuel from the connector that the hose attaches to on the fuel pump. I will continue to monitor the weep hole on the fuel pump to see if it needs replacing but so far so good. Also installed a ground wire from the condenser to the frame. It's supposed to help the condenser operate more efficiently. I may start a do over of the valve adjustment, fuel/air mix and carb synch just to eliminate all possibilities of problems. The air cut off valve looks good so I didn't rebuild it. I will probably replace the copper crush washers on the mufflers. I have a friend who tuned carbs all his life coming over, so he may be able to shed some light on the fueling.

I may just plain be too picky as I've come from fuel injected bikes that idle flawlessly. The bike pulls strong and cruises nicely but still pops when decelling or going down a steep hill. Can sure tell there are only 50 ponies pushing this 600+ bike around but it's still fun to ride. I applied for collector plates yesterday. That will make insurance cost about $ 250/yr.

 

[Def]

Oh Yeah...one more thing. I just happened to touch the triple tree pinch bolts and noticed the left one was not even finger tight! Geesh, I just rode the bike 200 miles! Anyway, I tightened it up and checked the right side and it was not very tight either, so I tightened it up. Moral of the story is...get a wrench on all the bolts if you can, and check 'em. Those are probably 2 of about 6 bolts I hadn't had a wrench on the whole bike.

 

[pidjones]

Condenser should be hard-bolted to good solid ground. Also make sure there is a good ground strap between frame and engine, frame and triple trees. Don't rely on bolts through painted frame pieces for this. Without good condensers, you will be replacing points every 500 miles.

 

[Def]

So, today I re-adjusted the carbs and synched them. The bike runs better now, although not 100%. I'll continue to fiddle with the carbs but am beginning to wonder if my timing is off a bit. I don't have a timing gun so will have to acquire one somewhere.

Anyway, while I was synching the carbs, I overheated the bike. I noticed when I looked down to a pool of antifreeze on the ground. I quickly shut it off but I KNOW the fan was working the last time I ran it. I turned the bike back on and gave the fan blade a poke with my screwdriver and away it went! I finished synching the carbs but Now I'm puzzled as to what is going on with the fan. This Happened one other time before. Anyone else experience this? If so, what was your fix? I'd really rather not bypass the switch cuz I'll never remember to turn it on or shut it off. Any thoughts?

 

[Ansimp]

If you had to flick the fan to start it maybe it is running out of brushes and not the fan switch that is faulty. If you had an override switch you would know it was a faulty fan if it doesn't run when the switch is on.

 

[Def]

So yesterday I decided to remove, disassemble and re-assemble the neutral switch as per the tutorial on the NGW site. I have a donor motor so I learned how to remove the neutral switch on that motor. I disassembled and cleaned that neutral switch for practice and then re-assembled it. I then started on the switch in the bike. I drained the oil, dropped the mufflers, removed the cover over the oil screen...eeww!!! it was dirty, so I cleaned it. I then removed the bottom frame bolt and loosened the bolts on the subframe and flexed the frame using a big screwdriver. I then removed the neutral switch by twisting it out toward the now removed oil screen cover. (working space is tight, I have to admit). I took the switch apart and cleaned it up really good using carb cleaner and lightly sanded the contact points with 1000 grit sandpaper. (It was full of black carbon buildup). I reassembled and put everything back together(after testing the neutral light switch first, of course). I actually changed the oil and filter for the 3rd time in 500kms and replaced the header gaskets and changed the fuel filter again. It works perfectly!!! no more glowing neutral light while in gear and I didn't have to remove the engine or buy a new neutral switch!

Oh yeah, and the neutral light glows nicely only when in neutral.

 

[Ansimp]

Good stuff :clapping:

 

[Def]

Okay Wingdingers...where does this go? Dimensions are about 2.5"w x 1"h.

 

[dan filipi]

I'm pretty sure those are aftermarket so there's no specific place intended for them to stick to.
I have one on the center handle bar clamp.

 

[Def]

Good to know! Thanks

 

[Ansimp]

I was also thinking maybe front brake reservoir

 

[Def]

it would probably look good there!

 

[Def]

Hey Wingers!!! After riding 1000 kms on my bike over the last couple of weeks, I decided to remove the airbox and air filter this evening to do the poor boy test as to whether or not my GL is running lean or rich. (I will test it out tomorrow) I fiddled with the air mixture/ carb synch and although the bike runs better, it still pops at decel or when going down a long hill. When the throttle is open just a tiny bit it also feels like it's kinda starving for fuel. Feels much like it's about to run outta gas and I need to switch it to reserve, if you know what I mean. The 2 mechanics I'm friends with think my slow fuel jets may need to be changed to 36 or 37 or 37.5 from 35. If all indicators point this way, that's what I'll do. Anyone one else changed the slow fuel jets? What were your findings on your bike? Does my prognosis make sense with the description of my fueling concern?

 

[ekvh]

Other options to rich running is increasing the air jet size a little. If everything is stock, you shouldn't need to change jet sizes. Popping on deceleration is often from the air cutoff valve leaking or inoperable.

 

[Def]

Okay, so I rebuilt the air cutoff valve to see if that would fix my decel poppin & fartin but, unfortunately it didnt make any difference.
it actually seems to run a bit worse. Dang!! Well, I do feel better that I rebuilt it as that eliminates one potential problem and only cost $20 in parts. Tiny throttle openings seem to really cause the bike to pop and feel like its not getting enough fuel. Pulling the choke out helps but isnt a fix to the problem. Ill keep fiddling with it. Do the carbs need re-synching after rebuilding the air cut off valve.