Barn Find

[Steve83]

The inside bolt securing the fuel pump mount/tach drive to the head also secures the tach cable. Remove the bolt, slide the cable into the drive housing, re-install the bolt. It should catch the groove in the end of the cable housing.

 

[Def]

I'm getting very close to firing up the GL1000 but I have a few more wires to hook up. I really do get stumped on some of the simplest things...and other more complicated tasks seem so easy. Anyway, Where do I attach the negative battery wire to the frame?

Also, the two wires coming out of the points...where do they go? Does pic #3 answer my own question?

Wires for the horn? I seem stumped on that one ,too. Pic #2

I'm not too sure what to do with this mess...yay Vetter!! Pic #1

And finally...looks like a helmet lock re-location... a mod, perhaps? Pic #4

Thanks for your help!

 

[Steve83]

On the 1100's, the negative cable goes between the hanger bracket and engine block, around the long through-bolt. I believe the 1000's are the same. I don't recall where the points or horn wires attach, it's been WAY too long since I did my 1000.

 

[pidjones]

The points each attach to one of the double sockets from the coils - the other socket gets condenser plugged into it to prevent rapid point deterioration. The ground is the same on the 1000. I can't see the photos. There is a Vetter wiring diagram on the Vetter site, I believe.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2

 

[Def]

Okay, so I plugged the wires coming from the points into the 2 female connectors as shown in the pics. I picked up a new battery and tried to start the bike for the first time in 8 years. The starter works fine and the motor turns over very smoothly. However, she will not fire. Fuel is going through the system...even a small leak from the plenum (guess I'll have to change that seal also, dang!) but where do I go from here? Is there a checklist somewhere that I can go through to determine spark at the plugs etc? Thanks again for the help. I'll tackle the other electrical when I know for sure this engine runs well.

 

[Ansimp]

I usually remove a plug and make sure it is earthed to the threads and wind if over with the starter and observed the spark, should be a blueish color maybe a little orange.

 

[pidjones]

Make sure the points are opening and closing. Make sure power is getting to the coils, check the resistor (it should be out of the loop while cranking to boost voltage, then be in circuit in Run to reduce coil heating. Just take the wiring diagram and trace through it, checking each junction for the ignition power on the bike. The Stop switch (right handlebar switches) is in RUN, right? In the Clymer manual, ignition troubleshooting starts on page 12. In the Honda manual, 16-4 (page 282 in my pdf copy). If you don't have these, you really need them. They are available for download on the 'net.

 

[slabghost]

Coils getting power? check wiring at the points. Thin insulator washers there that can be missed and ground the points.

 

[Def]

She Runs!!!!The breaker point wires go into a plugin connector just behind the condenser by the battery, in case anyone else buys a GL1000 in boxes without the education of dis-assembling the bike. Once I plugged them in and added a washer that was missing to the point plate (Thanks slabghost) she started up right away! Hard to believe after sitting dis-assembled for over 8 years. It does need a carb sync so I'll pull out my Morgan Carbtune tomorrow after I youtube a vid for memory's sake. The gauges seem to work fine although the gas gauge might not be accurate. The rad fan functions as it should, the neutral light stays on when I shift through the gears and the Tach is definitely not working properly. The high beam light is always on even though the headlight doesn't work...this is most likely a wiring issue. Hopefully the stator functions properly. I'm just happy it runs with no leaks after an hour of running. Time to order a front tire and tube, battery rubber strap, and flush the front brake lines....(boy does the reservoir look gross!!)and print off the Vetter fairing wiring diagram. Just thought I'd share.

 

[Steve83]

That's wonderful!! Another wing saved from the scrap pile is up and running! Congrats - and well done! :clapping: :clapping: arty:

 

[Ansimp]

+1 Congratulations :clapping: :salute:

 

[pidjones]

Great work! Let me suggest that you sort the neutral switch problem before going further. It is a bear to get to at best, next-to impossible in a fully assembled 'Wing. The switches (once you are sure of no wiring errors) can be disassembled and rebuilt or just replaced. Sometimes an oil additive might free them up, but I'd rather be certain. Do a search, there are instructions for removal and rebuild.

 

[mcgovern61]

:clapping:

 

[joedrum]

yep great news

 

[Def]

Thanks fellow Wingers for your kind words!!
+1 on the neutral switch. Is there an aftermarket one or OEM only? I also need a rubber battery strap and a rubber boot that goes on the sensor (oil pressure switch?)can't think of the name right now but it's right beside the engine ID # just behind the carbs. New front tire and tube ordered and on it's way.

 

[pidjones]

I'd just rebuild the switch - not hard. The rubber should be available from Partzilla new (don't buy used rubbers). They may have new switches, too.

 

[Def]

Tire and tube came today. I picked up a Spitfire from Motorcycle Superstore. $95 shipped to lower 48 fyi. tube was $19.

Anyway, I've been trying to fix my wiring. I had everything working tonight, put the bike back together and back to the same old problems. The running lights on the Vetter fairing and the tail running light don't work. Bulbs all tested and they are fine. Also, highbeam indicator light, and gauge lights don't work. Headlight low beam and high beam work, brake light works, signals front and back work and all gauges them selves work, just not the lights in them. Anyone else have the same wiring challenges as me? Any ideas? I'm kinda at a loss at the moment.

 

[Joep]

Check your fuse panel.. on my 1100.. my fuse for the rear taillight was flakey in the holder.. replaced it and they came back... my panel lights and rear lights did not work but everything else did...

 

[Def]

update: Did I fix the wiring?..naaa not yet. I now have all the lights working except the headlight and high beam indicator light. Seems my problem lies in the windjammer fairing wiring rats nest. If thats not it, then possibly my ignition switch and switch wiring is compromised, still fighting with it.

 

[joedrum]

its really hard to guild here ..except to say it work ..it did at one time ...hmmmm headlight and indicator not working ...might be switch on bar ... just stick with it it seems your getting it ...