Hooch breaks a belt...

[pidjones]

Brake work. Yech. I hate brake fluid!

 

[desertrefugee]

joedrum » Sat Jul 27, 2019 4:20 pm[/url]":1ovbzmot]
Hey Darrel ..I’ve got a mod for you ...if you still have those weber carbs ...take one ..center mount it on your 79 ...like the hooch bike is ..I bet that would size it right ...probably make that 79 scream I’m thinking

You know Joe, I let those Webers go. I’ve actually had sellers remorse a couple of times already. Thanks! You just gave it to me again! It would be fun to try that.

 

[joedrum]

It’s running ...seems like I migh have a idler pulley making some noise first I’ve ever heard that

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-XrU6P2iG ... e=youtu.be

 

[bib]

I heard it about a minute into the video. I've never had one go bad on me but it sure sounds like that could be what it is. There's a pair of used ones at Hanni's that seemed good from what I can remember but I don't know if they're 1000/1100 or 1200 pulleys...IIRC the brackets are different.

 

[joedrum]

There all the Same bib ...hmmm thanks for bringing that up ...at least I think there all the same ..I should know lol

 

[pidjones]

I built these easy enough for my 1000. Got the bearings on Amazon, turned down bolt heads on the lathe.

 

[Ansimp]

pidjones » Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:40 am[/url]":1x9y2tqe]
I built these easy enough for my 1000. Got the bearings on Amazon, turned down bolt heads on the lathe.

:good: :clapping:

 

[saganaga]

pidjones » Today, 6:40 pm[/url]":3u2k1atx]
I built these easy enough for my 1000. Got the bearings on Amazon, turned down bolt heads on the lathe.

I'm getting quite envious of people with a full shop setup.

 

[julimike54]

That sounds louder than the one I had after a belt change and it being down for a while, but I'd already covered it up versus yours is not. Mine noise went away after a few hundred miles. I think the grease gets redistributed after a while and that quiets it down.
Good luck.

 

[ekvh]

I have tensioner from all three of the four cylinder Wings. The brackets are different but can be used. I can’t remember which it was but I think it’s the 1200 that’s different. To use them you need to loosen the bolts way out almost to the ends of the threads to get enough room to get the belt on. Relying on spring tensioning is questybecause of this.

 

[Daeouse]

You’ve done some incredible work so far, man! I’m astonished at the results of your hard work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[julimike54]

Daeouse » 57 minutes ago[/url]":17430psj]
You’ve done some incredible work so far, man! I’m astonished at the results of your hard work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very true! :music:

 

[pidjones]

pidjones » Today, 6:40 pm[/url]":2xujjd3h]
I built these easy enough for my 1000. Got the bearings on Amazon, turned down bolt heads on the lathe.

I'm getting quite envious of people with a full shop setup.

It's just a HF mini 7x10, but is lots of fun within its limits.

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

 

[GTC@MSAC]

Hey Joe,
It almost gives the motor a VW "cricket-power" sound doesn't it? Good to to see it going again!

 

[joedrum]

Yah the noise could be a bit of belts out of sync ..one thing I do always and most never consider when it comes to timing belts ...Honda provides those silly springs as belt tensioners ...again this is not a malicious slam on engineering and technical how to ...but it is silly that the weakest spring in a system is going manipulate anything in the system ...following Honda how to put belts on ..for sure always puts belts on wrong and out of sync ...leading to the mythical cam wobble split timing baloney pushed as a flaw in oldwing motor ...nope it’s just a flaw in putting on two timing belts on a motor ...and made worse by manuals and Honda how to put belts on as right and the ridiculous spring engineering method ..

I have not sync-the belts yet cause I’m waiting for the new belts I have coming and I’m also going to change the cam to the deletion of the fuel pump and tack drive gear ...

Once you have belts on and timed ...but not fine timed ..anyone who goes by the manual to puts belts on ..the truth is the timing off period close but off ..belt tensioners are off also ...

So once belts are on there is spot one each side where the cam is free ..no valve spring pressure going on ...has nothing to do with timing marks and stuff ..this is where you set the idler tension or better put belt tension ..you want all the slack taken up on the belt but not stretch it or put tremendous tension on idler pulley...then do the other side the same way ...

I won’t worry to much about the idler till i get things set right ....

On a side note that many have consider in this area. Of oldwings motors ...many have wanted and even me also to advance or retard timing of cams set up ...people have made offset keyways and such to accomplish this ...but the truth is...if Honda would have put two tensioners on the belt where you had control of both sides of the belt top and bottom ...you could fine tune any degree timing you want and not be limited to one setting and perfect belts sizing by manufactures ...

On a boxer motor that is so perfect made at 180 degrees in the oldwing4s. This is super important ...when there right there right if there off a bit it can make running problems more pronounced in my option ...

 

[Ansimp]

Joe remember the springs are a guide to the correct tension for the belts. They do loose spring tension with age and I usually apply just a little extra pressure when locking up the tensioner position. Remember too much tension is just as bad as not enough tension! :yes:

 

[joedrum]

Joe remember the springs are a guide to the correct tension for the belts. They do loose spring tension with age and I usually apply just a little extra pressure when locking up the tensioner position. Remember too much tension is just as bad as not enough

Yes Tony the post was on how you truly get that ..where both belts are tension the same and just right ...as far as the silly springs ...there always one of the first things I get rid of ..I’m not advocating how people should do it ...I’m posting what I do and sharing it ..

Belt deflection of about a 1/4” is what I think is the best method of being just right in my opinion ...

 

[dan filipi]

In my experience just a 1/4” belt deflection when engine is cold is too little because the boxer engine expands outward while heating up. Just 1/4” deflection would result in a very tight belt after expansion. The last adjustment I made to mine, I ran it til hot, then loosened tension slightly. Then look at it again when cold. Deflection was more along what manual says.

 

[joedrum]

Pic

Got my belts ...four gates belts ..$6.57 apiece and free shipping ..three belts made in USA..one in Italy... :BigGrin: time to work on bike soon ...want to change the cam and carrier ...I was so blessed to get these cams from flip flop as they are as good as the motor that’s in hooch now...very low mileage ... :builder:

Be no work today it’s fixing to rain ...

 

[pidjones]

Great that you have the new belts! (And, that's a great price.) I put new belts on my '79 today, and the old ones were stiff and the writing all worn off the outsides of them. Plus, they had a slight ridge where the seam in the idler runs on them.