Marty's 1981 Goldwing resto

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I finally got the frame back last weekend. I need to weld one of the exhaust hangers back on that PO broke off. The seat looks like it fits well to the frame. the tank I'll definitely have to do more work on, the gas tank filler neck will be interesting to fit. Anyways I got al off the caked on stuff off of the bottom of the engine and got the frame wire wheeled so that primer will stick well. I am going to paint the frame and block ath the same time because I decided to use the same paint on both. Only difference is the frame is going to have a flat clear coat.

 
So after comparison shopping between hydro dipping and powder coating. I decided on hydro dipping, mainly because The local hydro dipper hooked me up. So today I welded the broken exhaust mount back on and I helped to dip the right side of the frame. keep in mind that the final color is going to be much darker, that is just a base color...


Like new...



Primed...


Base coat...
My local hydro dipper painting...



 
mcgovern61":3vim6h42 said:
Very cool! What exactly is hydro dipping?

It's also called water transfer, Its a film that floats atop water, that wraps around parts that you dip into it. The most common example is the fake wood grain that you see in car dashboards, or Mossy Oak camo on gun stocks.

This video shows how its done...

https://youtu.be/EmcdGmYexd8
 
After putting the top coat on I decided that I didn't like the way the frame was turning out, so I am going to take it down and get it powder coated midnight blue.

Gas tank and such should be back this weekend.
 
For graphite look, I would get powder coating with a metal flake.

I decided to get Metallic Navy Blue for powder coat.
 
I really liked what I saw of your water transfer effect, what was the issue. I know that I should get my 92 naked CBR project powder coated but I am hesitant as it means blasting all the original powder coating off before applying the new stuff. We had some wrought iron furniture done through my wife's work and you can see rust bleeding through in places. So I am thinking of just spot blasting the bad areas and using rattle can paint to patch up the ugly bits.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=82113#p82113:zsuvk92a said:
Ansimp » Thu May 23, 2013 11:25 pm[/url]":zsuvk92a]I really liked what I saw of your water transfer effect, what was the issue. I know that I should get my 92 naked CBR project powder coated but I am hesitant as it means blasting all the original powder coating off before applying the new stuff. We had some wrought iron furniture done through my wife's work and you can see rust bleeding through in places. So I am thinking of just spot blasting the bad areas and using rattle can paint to patch up the ugly bits.

The issue was that all of the little imperfections from the dipping where extremely apparent after I put on the top coat. I'll see if I can get a good picture of it.
 
I finally got some pics of the failed frame paint job, and I got the tank back. I just need to get a little bit of rust out of it, then I'm going to paint it flat black or crinkle flat black, I haven't decided yet. The tank is in pretty good condition considering the way it looked.

I also took a 160 mile trip through the valley in my cage, I have a couple pics to illustrate the bugs we have out here, I had to stop 2 times to clean the windshield because I couldn't see out of it lol.





 
I am going to the powder-coater today, here is a list of things I am getting coated...
Tank, frame, throttle guards, generator guard, brake calipers. I am still debating on the valve covers, I think brushed aluminum looks pretty cool but matching covers could look cool too.

Any suggestions as to what else I should get coated (high heat or stress areas) would be helpful, thanks.
 

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