Oldwing starts no more

[JoeBarTeam]

hi ernest,
the black oem wire and the black/green oem wire are the same wires, i think. i don't see any black/green wire. i have just a black oem wire in the harness and this is not connected to my new RR. this wire ends now at the wiring connection to the RR so i don't need to tape it off and it could be used for relay operation in the future as you mean.

on the other side it goes to the ignition switch says the honda manual. the electric troubleshooting manual says it goes to the fuse number 4 of the fuse box and it is live with the key.
fuse number 4 is the meter tail, right?
which manual version is correct for my gl1200a, honda manual or troubleshooting manual? it is confusing me.

i have also the voltage drop with the turn signals. the drop is at any RPMs. the drop difference is quite constant. it doesn't change much, maybe 0.1 to 0.5 volts, if i use all consumers or just 10 watts. it doesn't matter at all what type of consumers i use for getting the voltage drop. anything on produces it with exception of the voltmeter that has his connection at the acc. fuse like all other accessories i have.

my RR comes from https://mtp-racing.de/Spannungsregler-MOSFET-FH020AA
it should be a genuine FH020AA. they write it is not a FH012AA and it is not a china RR. do you think they tell the true? i hope, yes.

is it possible and how to test the RR for knowing if it is a shunt type RR or not?

greez
joebarteam

 

[Rednaxs60]

Joe - the sense wire on my '85 LTD is black/green, very possible the wire code did change. These wire(s) are powered through fuse #4. Keep it available for other uses.

I have the '84 to '87 OEM service manual in PDF I can send via email using wetransfer. Did I send you a copy? Never hurts to have more information. Send PM if you would like a copy.

As for your RR, where it is manufactured can be a mystery. As long as it works, who's to say what the longevity will be. The "FH" series has the newer internal MOSFET technology, and it is still a shunt type RR. An RR with an "SH" designation should be a series regulator.

Check out this video, if you can test the RR and get readings, it is a shunt RR. https://youtu.be/Q87JmhE5LVk

The SH847 RR that I purchased from Roadster Cycle cannot be tested. Sent Jack an email querying this and he replyed that even he cannot test a series RR to determine whether it is good or not. I have not been able to find information on how to test a series RR as well.

Cheers

 

[JoeBarTeam]

hi ernest
i sent you a mail for the pdf.
easy to test and know if the RR is or not a shunt. i will do it and tell you.

greez
joebarteam

 

[Rednaxs60]

Xavier - PDF sent.

 

[JoeBarTeam]

Hi Ernest
Got the pdf, thank you very much.
Started to look in, it goes deep into details. Perfect.
Tomorrow is reading time for charging pages.
joebarteam

 

[JoeBarTeam]

i didn't see anything new for me at the charging part of the very good service manual so i wanted to start with testing my RR for knowing if it is a shunt or not but before i wanted to ride a little bit and checked tyres pressure. doin't this i heared a whistle out of the front tyre valve ****s*h*i*t**** the valve is broken and it is a new one. every new tyre a new valve. not any more. i'll buy an adapter with right angle to install instead of the normal straight valve.
i'm lucky i've a second bike, my fj 1200, so i still can ride untill the oldwing keeps the air in the tyre again. i think i need a 3rd bike... what if the 2nd bike has an issue when such things happen to the 1st bike? that is it, a 3rd bike has to come. *lol*
cheers

 

[julimike54]

MBS in the works :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[JoeBarTeam]

what is MBS? Murphys caos theory?

 

[Tom_Charlton]

Multiple bike syndrome - many of us suffer from it.

 

[JoeBarTeam]

great illness! the therapy is getting more bikes. i think i'm infected *lol*

 

[julimike54]

PurpleGL1200I » 42 minutes ago[/url]":z3e32og0]
Multiple bike syndrome - many of us suffer from it.

:Egyptian: :Egyptian: :Egyptian:

 

[JoeBarTeam]

hi oldwing owners
i'm still fighting my mbs *lol*. i'll loose the fight.
on the other side i took a look at my RR and measured the ohms.
with the multimeter black wire at the +RR i get 10M ohm and the red wire to the yellow connections
with the multimeter red wire at +RR i get 6-13M ohm jumping up and down.
with the multimeter black wire at the -RR i get 3.3K ohm and the same result with the multimeter red wire at the -RR.
what does this means now? do i have a really mosfet o a shunt RR?
cheers

 

[JoeBarTeam]

hi ernest
i think my explanation was not eficient last time. you told me to test my RR to see if it was a shunt RR or a real mosfet RR.
i tested it and got the following results. as they are not the same nor they are similar results like the RR test in the video you showed me, i am not sure for the definition of my RR.

1. with the multimeter black wire at the RR plus and the multimeter red wire at any of the 3 yellow connections = 10M ohms.
2. with the multimeter red wire at the RR plus and the multimeter black wire at any of the 3 yellow connections = jumping results from 6M ohms to 13M ohms.
3. with the multimeter black wire at the minus RR and the multimeter red wire at any of the 3 yellow connections = 3.3K ohms.
4. with the multimeter red wire at the minus RR and the multimeter black wire at any of the 3 yellow connections = 3.3K ohms.

what do you think?
does it change anything for the wiring process i have done or does it maybe explain the voltage drop with any consumers?

cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Xavier - you have a shunt type regulator or you would not be getting any readings. I take it you have a 5 wire model. The three yellow hook to the stator wiring, the red and black are positive out and ground. No change in wiring it.

When you test your RR if it has mosfet technology, use the diode setting. From what I have found, you test an RR that has the mosfet components for diodes only, different from the older style with SCR technology.

If there is other information out there would like to know.

Let me know how you make out.

Cheers

 

[JoeBarTeam]

hi ernest,
ok, got it. thank you.
next time i get to my RR i'll test it in diod mode and i'll tell you the results.

the wiring in my oldwing is as you recomended me.
the 3 yellow RR connections to the 3 yellow wires. the red RR connection to the 2 red/white wires together and the black RR connection to the 2 green wires together. the oem black wire is tapped and unconnected.
i've changed the connection of the voltmeter from the acc. fuse to the battery (directly) to see the difference in readings next ride i'll do when it stops snowing *smile*. i'll also tell you what it shows.
cheers

 

[JoeBarTeam]

hi ernest,
the "mosfet" RR i purchased isn't a real mosfet but they sell it telling it is one. how can i be sure next time that i get what i expect? do you know how?
cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

You have an RR that most likely utilizes MOSFET components instead of the older SCR technology, the distributor is giving you correct information. You have an RR that is a shunt type RR, not a series RR. Your new RR will work and control the current flow into the electrical system more efficiently than the older style RR, and as such, will be better for the system. A series RR would do it that much better, and differently of course.

An RR is either series or shunt type. The internal components can be SCR or MOSFET. What is being misconstrued is that "MOSFET" implies a series regulator. The MOSFET electronic component replaces the older SCR electronic components and how a MOSFET controls current flow is the difference between the two. Most modern or upgrade RRs have internal MOSFET components. Hard to tell which RR has MOSFET components, no external way to do this so you have to take the word of the distributor/manufacturer. The question that has to be asked is whether the RR you intend to purchase is a shunt or series type RR, and what is the ampere size of the RR - no guarantees on this as well depending on where you are purchasing from. Saying yes to whether it has MOSFET technology or not is easy, just about every RR produced today uses MOSFET components.

The FH012AA/FH020AA RR use MOSFET internal components, but are a shunt type RR. The SH775/SH847/Compufire 55403 RRs are a series RR and use internal MOSFET components - so the literature details. Unless you go to the manufacturing plant, no way to tell how the RR was manufactured.

The difference is how the RR manages the DC current as you know. It is probably less expensive to produce a shunt type RR than a series type RR because of where the control circuit is located relative to the DC current flow, and the size difference is noticeable as well. I would expect that if you shunt current to ground the circuitry is less robust than that required to be directly in the DC current path. The price of a series RR tends to support this.

As the gents south of me have mentioned on several occasions, you get what you pay for. You have bought an RR from a reputable source, go with it. The only other avenue to pursue is a series RR such as the SH775/SH847/Compufire. I have purchased the SH847 from Roadster Cycle and have to accept that it is a series RR with the latest MOSFET technology, no other way to determine otherwise.

Hear you on the snow issue. Yesterday it went to 15 deg C, sunny and a nice bike ride. Have some small issues I want to attend to on the bike, but with the weather cooperating, I have deferred these to a later date.

Hope this helps, not the weather and riding.

Cheers

 

[JoeBarTeam]

hi ernest,
thank you for your clear explanation, as allways.
the bigger size was a problem to install it at the original place but it fits after some needed modifications. no room resting after it.
we had 32 deg F today. not extremely cold but enough to stop playing with tools at the bike. my motivation is waiting for warmer days. no heating in the garage *smile*
cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

No worries. Good riding weather today as well. Just mounted my new to me Garmin 350LM GPS, works a treat.

The better half is starting to plan some trips for us. First is to Italy - Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, Rome, Pompeii. Probably a few stops in between.

Think France could be next year.

Cheers

 

[JoeBarTeam]

i hope you come to france next year. make a stop at the burgund. i'll try to meet you and show you beautiful places here.
italy is great, enjoy your trip.
cheers