The "Turd" is down and out(head gaskets & other stuff)

[rob.lafady]

This is my exact concern about doing a complete tear down, which I plan on doing within a year, making sure I know where everything goes, and where I put it to keep it "safe"...

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

 

[AApple]

slabghost » Sun Jan 24, 2016 7:48 pm[/url]":654doyjp]
Looks like the kick down arm on the center stand is bent enough the very end has become the "foot" for the left side leaning the bike to the right. Nice progress so far. Looking forward to your reassembly.

Yeah..it does appear that way, but the original center stand did the same thing, until the foot lever broke off, prolly for the same reason. Questions is, WHY? I don't think the frame is bent, tho anything am possible at this point. Perhaps the curvature of the earth here in Texas is just too much for the stand to compensate for? :hihihi:

a well experienced forum group work great.

And that's why I asked for help! This forum IS my service manual, and foto guide source! I do use baggies, and small, clear boxes to store parts from each area when tearing it apart. I wasn't really planning on having the front end torn down for this long...it just kinda happened that way. :blush: Hopefully, someone will come to my rescue with the proper routing of this crap. :beg:

 

[slabghost]

Yeah..it does appear that way, but the original center stand did the same thing, until the foot lever broke off, prolly for the same reason. Questions is, WHY? I don't think the frame is bent, tho anything am possible at this point. Perhaps the curvature of the earth here in Texas is just too much for the stand to compensate for? :hihihi:

If the kick lever catches something with the bike in motion it could bend pretty easy. :yes:

 

[bronko37]

Don't worry Joel, you'll get it sorted. Come too far to stop now. I understand the overwhelming nature of having parts everywhere. Don't let it make you nervous. As you begin putting it back together just focus on one "system" at a time. I was getting nervous taking the 76 all apart to do the motor but then I remembered that there wasnt anything I had not done before at one point or another until I actually go the motor out. Just keep taking little bites out of it until eventually it is all put back together. :builder: :read: :beer: :beer: :beer: :builder: :read: :beer: :beer: :beer:

 

[mcgovern61]

Joel,

The cables go to right of the gauges between the fork and the mount of the gauges.

 

[AApple]

Front end is back together(Thanx Gerry :yes: ). Forks set at same height, new oil, fender & tire back on. Need to get new braking pads, but that's no biggy.

GL1100171

• AApple
• Feb 7, 2016

Front end re-assembled

HOWEVER.... :rant: :sensored: :sensored: :rant:

GL1100173

• AApple
• Feb 7, 2016

Left side carbs

GL1100174

• AApple
• Feb 7, 2016

Right side carbs

I got the carbs set up on a makeshift stand, to test for leaks.....

GL1100175

• AApple
• Feb 7, 2016

Carb "test" stand

and they failed miserably..... :head bang: They're leaking on BOTH sides at the "fuel joint pipes"...

glcarb

• AApple
• Feb 7, 2016

Fuel leak

I did not disturb any of this when I cleaned the carbs...never took any of it apart, but it's leaking profusely on both sides. WTF?!? I did have a small fuel leak on the left side before if it sat for a week or so, but it would always stop leaking after a few minutes. I believed it was leaking from the float bowl on the #2 carb, but now I'm not sure. As the fuel leaks, it runs down the top of the fuel bowl, looking like the bowl is leaking. I REALLY do not wanna rip the air chamber halves apart, pull one carb off both sides, and install new o-rings, but it looks like I may have to. Once I saw the leaks, I closed up and came back in the house. I want to install the engine back in the frame next weekend..... :yes:

 

[joedrum]

just o rings ..but there placement is in hell :hihihi:

 

[Denver]

Those O'rings bake out & get brittle, :Awe: nitrile is the best type of O'ring now, :good: resistant to about anything. :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

That really blows, Joel. One of worst places to have a leak.

I'd put new seals in everything at this point. Good chance since those leak for others to leak.

 

[slabghost]

Decision times like these suck. You've already messed with the linkage so adjusting it again probably not a big deal. O rings by themselves can be had pretty cheap but what else has to move? What else can be messed up? I think if it were mine I'd dry and clean those joints and seal up with some gasoline resistant epoxy. Could send out to be rebuilt but that is expensive. Full rebuild yourself only a bit less expensive. Dkl single carb conversion about 1/3rd price. $2-3 for epoxy looks good to me.

 

[bronko37]

dan filipi » Sun Feb 07, 2016 9:17 pm[/url]":1gi8yyda]
That really blows, Joel. One of worst places to have a leak.

I'd put new seals in everything at this point. Good chance since those leak for others to leak.

You already know my remedy....Just cant trust 30 year old rubber bits. Splitting all that stuff is not that difficult. You wont have to get at any of the jets or anything to do it. However, if you are going split it all apart anyway, and you are planning on sticking with stock rack anyway, you may as well not risk it and stop :head bang: and just purchase a kit to replace all that crap. Certainly if you are handy enough to do all this other work, you can handle a carburetor.

Or I guess you can just silly putty it and hope..... :beg: I know what I would do tho.

 

[Denver]

Agreed!! :good: SILLY PUTTY :smilie_happy:

 

[AApple]

Got the carbs off of the air chamber. I checked for leaks before tearing them down this evening, and the leak was gone on the right side, and the left side was just barely seeping, so the o-rings HAD swelled some overnight. Rather than have to pull the dang rack back off sometime in the future, I might as well take care of it now, while it's still easy to get to.
The o-rings on the larger tubes are bad...period. Fortunately, I have the correct size o-rings here, so those are good. The small tubes, are a different story all together. The o-rings on those are so shrunken they don't even begin to touch the bore in the carbs. But...there was no fuel leaking from the smaller tubes. :headscratch: Are the smaller tubes air tubes, or fuel??
Whomever worked on these carbs before used some sort of sealer on everything. Not sure if it was sillycone, or what. Could be an anaerobic sealer...I may be using some meself on the air chamber halves.
I'll have to dig around the shop tomorrow and see if I can come up with the rest of the o-rings.

GL1100181

• AApple
• Feb 8, 2016

Transfer tubes w/old o-rings

GL1100182

• AApple
• Feb 8, 2016

Transfer tubes w/old o-rings

GL1100184

• AApple
• Feb 8, 2016

New o-rings for large tube

 

[bronko37]

Gotta watch them folks smearing sealer on everything. That 750 I just bought had a carb float problem so gas was overflowing the bowls and running out the drain tubes under the bike. The PO had the brilliant idea to just silly-cone the hoses under the bike. So then the gas overflowed into the air box and the bike caught on fire.

The point is things that are designed to seal with a simple oring should not also require silly-cone. If you put an oring in and its leaking, there is still a problem.

IMO you are doing it right now Joel. Whilst you are at it, I would also check the other gaskets and replace all the rubbery bits now, rather than finding out later that those are junk too. If some are bad its likely that all are sketchy at best.

Also, one of those tubes carries fuel and the other is just for air venting.

 

[AApple]

Saturday update:
After spending the mernin at the tax place, I manages to finish putting the carbs back together, and leak-checking them again. Success! :yahoo: No leakys this time. Only issue I saw was the #2 carb did not have an accelerator squirt. The other 3 did, but I may have not had enough fuel still in the #3 bowl to get all the way to that carb.
I set all of the throttle blades(bench synch) by using a micrometer. Measured from the throat of the #3 carb to the throttle blade, then set the other 3 to the same measurement. #2 carb took a while to get just right, but by golly I got all of them set exactly the same. It should start/run with no issues well enough to do the final adjustments easily.

Once the carbs were done, I tied them onto the chassis, and rolled the engine out to get it set onto the jack. Had to take a couple o snaps of it first... :yes:

GL1100192

• AApple
• Feb 13, 2016

Ready to go back in

GL1100195

• AApple
• Feb 13, 2016

Engine hoist...lol

And here we go!! Sliding the heartbeat of the Turd back into place....

GL1100198

• AApple
• Feb 13, 2016

Almost there....

Had to try to take a decent pic of the driveshaft snap-ringy thingy...

GL11001911

• AApple
• Feb 13, 2016

Driveshaft yoke, and snapring

And it's DONE...sorta..

GL11001912

• AApple
• Feb 13, 2016

It's in theah!

GL11001913

• AApple
• Feb 13, 2016

Back home again

GL11001915

• AApple
• Feb 13, 2016

Wired, ready to fire...almost...

All mounted up, most of the ancillaries done(carbs bolted down, fuel lines connected, tach/clutch cables, wiring.etc). In fact, if I could find the missing 2 sparkle plugs, it would prolly fire up as it sits. Guess I'll hafta go tomorrow and get a new set of plugs, and some erl to put in it. I'm gunna make sure the dang thing is guna fire off and run before getting it completely re-assembled. Fire it up and let it run a minute or two, then finish assembling the rest. If all goes well(yeah...right... oh2: ), it should be back in service before the end of the month, which was kinda my original deadline/goal. Lotsa minor stuff still to be done, but it's getting closer! :yahoo: :moped:

 

[slabghost]

Great progress! Can't wait to know it's all working right. For the first time actually. Put on a back rest and hold on tight yer in fer a sprise!.

 

[dan filipi]

Great Joel, looking good.

 

[Denver]

Looks great :good:

 

[julimike54]

Looking good from here!

 

[Ansimp]

Excellent work Joel :good: