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Well ....Dan when I read the info at cosmetic gaskets in there MLG design gaskets the middle is a solid piece of stainless steel and there thickest design is 120/1000 I’m thinking ....when I seen I could get two goo gaskets for 1200 for 15.88$ and free shipping ..I got two sets ...so I have 4 gaskets coming ...so my option of doing this came within a reasonable cost for me ...or I can just go one gasket at a time with spares ...the option of studs is out of the question now in simply cost ...so still looking for input ...dans point of twice as much sealing surface is total truth ...plus I’ll have to check the adjustable rockers to see if there is enough thread surface for the locking nut to work with thicker gasket set up ...thoughts keep them coming
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=214239#p214239:2eptrjcz said:
joedrum » Today, 4:27 pm[/url]":2eptrjcz]
Well ....Dan when I read the info at cosmetic gaskets in there MLG design gaskets the middle is a solid piece of stainless steel and there thickest design is 120/1000 I’m thinking ....when I seen I could get two goo gaskets for 1200 for 15.88$ and free shipping ..I got two sets ...so I have 4 gaskets coming ...so my option of doing this came within a reasonable cost for me ...or I can just go one gasket at a time with spares ...the option of studs is out of the question now in simply cost ...so still looking for input ...dans point of twice as much sealing surface is total truth ...plus I’ll have to check the adjustable rockers to see if there is enough thread surface for the locking nut to work with thicker gasket set up ...thoughts keep them coming
To be clear, sandwiching the copper gaskets....I meant that there would be twice as much sealing surface that must make a good seal. In other words, two times the chance of having or developing a leak.
 
Yes ..that’s what I thought you meant Dan ...I’m sure the cosmetic gasket of
MLG thick gaskets have just one fire ring ...I’m not sure I’ll do this ..but will be able to if I want
 
Dan is spot-on about sandwiching gaskets increasing the opportunity of leaks... and it's not a 'twice as much'... it's higher.

The 'fire ring' is a misunderstood feature... it's a malleable metallic seal, and even though it's copper, it survives under the pressure, heat, and force of it's job, because it conforms as you torque the head, and it work-hardens IN that position, with that force on it, and once clamped tight, has a very direct path through which to conduct heat out to the head and block. Just like the valve seat conducts heat out of the valve poppet into the head, a copper gasket does what it does, because it's form-fitted under considerable pressure as you torque the head, and then it's being constantly cooled. Doubling 'em up defies both of those.

I don't know what the GL block deck looks like, but I've O-ring'd blocks on a budget, using some rather crude tools in the past, and my O-ring material was ordinary bell wire that'd been stripped of it's insulation. The process ain't complicated... make a tool that slips into the bore, and fits well enough to rotate smoothly. Affix a boring bar to it, and rotate the whole thing, such that the boring bar's tool cuts an appropriately-sized groove around the combustion chamber... not the full depth, but about half the depth of a suitable wire diameter. Then, take a piece of that wire, and patiently form it around the groove, and overlap it a bit, clip it off, and then trim it back 'till it just BARELY overlaps... and seat it in. The concept is to have just enough metal, in a consistent setting, such that you can place the gasket on so it's AROUND the groove (and copper wire). Then install the head, and torque it accordingly...

Studs and nuts, with hardened washers under the nuts, and some blue loctite... would be the best plan ever... what makes you suggest it's out-of-budget?
 
LOL money Dave ...but I posted all this on previous post ....that I like copper ring as cylinder seal truth is ..pass that you don’t need a gasket there at all the ring would seal the cylinder ...you could seal around the outside of the water jacket with gasket where all the bolts are at and all things are done ...the water jackets need no gasket there ..the problem of doing as you state ...is the oldwing sleeve is two part aluminum and steel .. cutting the perfect groove would be not so easy .....as far sealing surface ...you have two surfaces with standard one gasket use ..you have two more with stacked sandwich gasket ..that adds up twice as much to me ....as far as studs go for there use over bolts..it is over done on there effectiveness over solid bolt ...a threaded hole is basically and for real a spiral wedged period ...a bolt with a solid head and one spiral wedge beats a stud with two spiral wedges any day ...period ...as person who life depended on knowing this stuff completely or risk dying over it ..believe me I know it ...simple math a spiral wedge made out of whatever doesn’t beat a solid bolt head ever ...using two wedges where all that’s needed is one is flat out stupid ..when your life is on the line ....you know what beats any spiral wedge ...it’s a hot rivet ..that first structures use from the get go ..everything else since then was total downgrade...studs are a complete fabricated over done engineering baloney in my book
 
Well I'm not sure which is better. I just look at something and think, "yeah that makes sense"

As far as I know nobody has used studs and nuts on this motor to prove or disprove it's effectiveness, so I'm stickin' with it until someone does. :BigGrin:
 
The true purpose of thoughts on this thread is the two fire rings being with a solid copper filler spacer..as maybe a better set up for using a copper head gasket ..as Dave said there twice as much let’s say insulation surface being used with two goo gaskets ..but copper transmits heat better than anything ....also as Dave says cutting in a O ring is a way to seal a copper gasket ...but in the same breath so is a fire ring ...it works some what the same way ...and with two fire rings top and bottom on the copper backed up by goo gasket it’s. Quite the sealing on the copper gasket top and bottom ...is it a gamble sure it is ...as far as we know it’s never been tried ...but this motor of mine is having a problem ....the. ? Is will the rockers adjust out far enough and still have lock nut threads to secure setting of valves ....if anyone wants read up on multi layered gaskets go to the cosmetic gasket site and read up on it ...basically they have a solid stainless steel center to them and torque squeezing metal top and bottom ..just like the standard goo gaskets have I’m getting ..they have some sort of goo encasement also ...the one big difference is I’m sure they have only one fire ring ...
 
Not sure if this helps in anyway, but I was at my boat yesterday afternoon winterizing the engine. It was 55 degrees out and the engine was nice and cold. I needed to change the oil (straight SAE 30w) for winter storage and wanted to heat the oil up to make it easier to flow. I had my IR tool to be able to check oil temp and various temps on the head and block.

With the engine started for 2 minutes, the head was only up to 62 degrees, the block was 58 degrees, but right where the head gasket protrudes from the block, that gasket was already 145 degrees!

In this picture from last spring, you can see the copper gasket protruding under the head:

image.php
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=214253#p214253:1bnezbfl said:
Two85s » Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:53 am[/url]":1bnezbfl]
Joe, What am I missing? Why would the head gasket change the valve adjustment, is the valve train not all within the head?


Ok two85 ...your exactly right ...just a complete miss thought by me thanks
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=214254#p214254:1rr36dqb said:
joedrum » Thu Nov 07, 2019 11:13 am[/url]":1rr36dqb]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=214253#p214253:1rr36dqb said:
Two85s » Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:53 am[/url]":1rr36dqb]
Joe, What am I missing? Why would the head gasket change the valve adjustment, is the valve train not all within the head?


Ok two85 ...your exactly right ...just a complete miss thought by me thanks....now this issue off the table ...cause it never was one .... :doh: :hihihi:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=214251#p214251:fi35fiz7 said:
mcgovern61 » Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:37 am[/url]":fi35fiz7]
Not sure if this helps in anyway, but I was at my boat yesterday afternoon winterizing the engine. It was 55 degrees out and the engine was nice and cold. I needed to change the oil (straight SAE 30w) for winter storage and wanted to heat the oil up to make it easier to flow. I had my IR tool to be able to check oil temp and various temps on the head and block.

With the engine started for 2 minutes, the head was only up to 62 degrees, the block was 58 degrees, but right where the head gasket protrudes from the block, that gasket was already 145 degrees!

In this picture from last spring, you can see the copper gasket protruding under the head:

image.php

I find this very impressive post ...about how copper transfers heat better than any other metals ...if the numbers are correct more than double the surrounding metal ......wow I’m sure once everything is warmed up numbers may be more equal ..but it for sure shows using copper in head gasket makeup makes sense ...fire rings on stock goo gaskets are steel not copper ...just waiting now and still contemplating making the gamble to try this :headscratch:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=214248#p214248:2xb86xya said:
joedrum » Yesterday, 5:27 am[/url]":2xb86xya]
simple math a spiral wedge made out of whatever doesn’t beat a solid bolt head ever ...using two wedges where all that’s needed is one is flat out stupid ..when your life is on the line ....you know what beats any spiral wedge ...it’s a hot rivet ..that first structures use from the get go ..everything else since then was total downgrade...studs are a complete fabricated over done engineering baloney in my book

Joe... I am an educated and experienced engineer. An engineer is someone who believes they know just-enough-about science, nature, and physics, to dive headling into a battle to fight nature, knowing full well that in the end, they will lose, and the bigger things they do, the more catastrophic it will be when they fail.

As part of my daily responsibilities, I design structures, use weldments and fasteners to hold them together... and unfortunately, I don't get to design them from the GIT-GO, I have to do it POST_FACTO... after someone else overlooked something critical, I have to affect a fix, and predict it's lifespan. Thermodynamics, expansion, heat transfer ALL fall into the materials sciences that I've had to know, and effectively employ, in order to be licensed and insured to do what I do. When I teach, I teach basic physical principles, and explain how they're employed in real life circumstances. When I give you opinion, I will tell you WHY my opinion is that way, and unless it has to do with pets, food, or music, my opinions are pretty much always the result of basic physical science facts. I don't have to wear thick glasses, but girls call me 'boring'.

Yes, there's times when a hot rivet will be a more suitable fastener than a bolt... and there are times when a soft bolt is better than a hardened bolt.

When you thread a 4-1/4" bolt through a 4" casting, into a tapped blind hole, and the bolt head seats after four turns, that means you have :
A) four threads of bolt, binding inside the hole's threads
B) 4" of bolt shank binding in the hole
C) Bolt head underside, binding against the head.

As you twist the bolt, you overcome binding of the threads, hole, and head-to-block... AND you TWIST the bolt... AND you're PULLING on FOUR THREADS... AND, you're applying tension to the bolt.

At this point, you're stepping into the world of STRESS-STRAIN, section modulus, elasticity, and force. Here's a complicated read, but look at the graphs, as they explain it in a quick picture:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress%E2 ... rain_curve

The first stage of tension... is ELASTIC. Consider a situation where you had a bolt that was made of plastic...

PULLING on the bolt causes it to stretch... and when you pull, up to a point, it will spring back to it's original shape. Once you exceed a certain point, the bolt will start to stretch... that's the point where it starts to YIELD... meaning... it will NOT return to original length. In metals, once you get to the yield point, the metal's properties change... they start to work-harden... and at this point, the hardening slightly INCREASES the strength of the bolt, but as you continue to increase the tension, the material 'necks'... it gets thinner... and then it breaks.

If you were to get a destructive-test tensiometer, and broke a thousand quarter-inch bolts, you'd get really, really good at estimating the yield strength of each sample, and when you changed from a Grade 3 to Grade 5 to grade 8, then 10, you'd be able to watch the bolt, and see the stretch, and know when it breaks. I know, because it was part of my job long ago, to qualify fasteners and X-ray weld coupons for cranes. I broke bolts by the thousands.


Now, rather than threading that bolt through a casting, just thread it into the hole and start twisting. Put a big long-a$$ bar on it, and twist 'till the bolt breaks. It had NO tension on it, but it broke. As you pulled on it, it felt springy... that's ELASTIC state. Then you pulled harder, and it gave a little... it went PLASTIC... (you exceeded yield strength), and after that, it hardened a bit, and then it necked, and broke.

Materials stretch, strain, and fail not because of any ONE force, but as a combination of ALL forces... that's called COMPOSITE stress, because while you're turning the bolt in (applying torque to twist it), you're also asking it to STRETCH, and since the casting faces and bolt landing aren't perfectly parallel, you're BENDING it...

And you're binding the threads, and binding the hole, and binding at the block.

And the amount of thread engagement you have in the hole is only 4 threads... oh wait- 3... because to alleviate some of the binding at the top, you've added a washer.

Now, realize that a thread is not a spiral... it's a scratch... what's leftover after a cutting tool RIPPED through a hole in the material, leaving a ramp (good term, BTW... 'ramp' is a 'simple machine'!) that a SUPPOSEDLY MATCHING bolt fits into. The amount of strength in the bolted assembly is first-and-foremost limited by the amount of 'thread meat'... and the threads' strength is a function of engagement surface, quality, and ancillary tension (torque).

Always remember: strength is not determined by the strongest element, but rather, the limitation of the weakest element.

Thread a stud in the same hole. Run it all the way to the bottom... don't apply force, just thread it 'till it's fully bottomed. At that point, there is NO force on the threads. Slip the casting over the stud. Drop on the washer, then thread on the nut. At this point, there is zero tension, and zero torque on the stud.

With the nut spun down by hand... with no torque, the bolt and threads' available strength is at maximum.

Start applying torque. The stud is placed under a SLIGHT amount of torque, but there's only TWO forces resisting- first is friction against the washer, the second, is friction against the threads in the nut. There's only so many threads in that nut, BUT... the nut's threads are all totally engaged, all the time... and the material of the nut is substantially stronger than the casting which the stud is seated in. This not only means the nut's grip is stronger, it means the surfaces will present substantially less friction. This means that as you apply force to the nut, MORE of it goes to generating clamping pressure, LESS of it goes to ancillary drag.

If you're still thinking that a stud is inferior to a bolt in terms of fastener capacity in a cylinder head, look at any extreme-power drag race engine, and count the number of head bolts used. The answer is none, ever.

Studs, stretch-bolts, and those stupid plastic buttons that hold the bumper cover on my son's Accord are not my opinion, they are fact- engineering design, and manufacture based on material science and physics. I don't write the laws of physics, I just spend quality time being punished after I've broken them.
 
Now... with regards to the head gasket seal... The best gasket, is NO gasket, but the only way to get a no-gasket-seal, is to have two perfectly infinitely smooth, flat surfaces, that never change shape.

Metals expand... hence, gaskets exist. Your engine's block and cylinder head are unfortunately engaged in the process of converting dead dinoaurs into neighborhood terror and the aroma of burning rubber... and in the process, there's pressure and heat.

the block is not subjected to as much heat as the head, therefore, thermal expansion of the two is NOT symmetrical. This means a gasket is necessary to maintain a seal.

The thing about seal surfaces is... the BEST seal, under ALL circumstances, is the one that occurs with the LEAST amount of seal material. Going with a sandwich of several gaskets means the gap between your castings is inherently larger, which exposes more of the seal material to pressures that cause failure.

the concept of o-ringing a head, is to increase the ability to seal against higher combustion-chamber pressures, without doing same in the cooling and oil-return areas. Why? Because the combustion pressures are 20x higher than all others combined.

By O-ringing the head, several very special things happen. First, is that a great majority of the mating force between the deck and head face, is concentrated ON the O-ring. Second, is that the O-ring, being malleable, and having excellent thermal conductivity, fills the grooves with itself under that pressure, and creates a very efficient pathway for combustion heat in the head, to be transferred to the block casting, so they TEND TO EXPAND MORE SYMMETRICALLY.

Gaskets, by nature, aren't particuarly strong. You wouldn't make an engine block or cylinder head out of gasket material, because they'd just blow out. in the case of stacking gaskets, you're simply exposing more gasket to the high pressures, while at the same time, reducing the thermal transfer capacity between head and block, and finally, lowering your hard-earned compression-ratio. It would not be a successful venture to stack gaskets for these reasons.

Have you given it a leakdown, or pulled the heads for a look yet? it would seriously reduce the amount of time wasted speculating here...
 
When I give you opinion, I will tell you WHY my opinion is that way, and unless it has to do with pets, food, or music, my opinions are pretty much always the result of basic physical science facts. I don't have to wear thick glasses, but girls call me 'boring'.

:smilie_happy:
 
Now Dave your first post was good ...and it made some very good points about threads ...but it was a bit slanted one way ...cause all the things talked about studs being not stressed is all true for bolt also ...nothing gets stressed till stress starts ...head bolts are almost all the way in before stress starts ..if a stud is actually stressed when put in ..you just then went into degrading the stud before it’s even met the job or it’s purpose ...bolts never have that happen unless there to long for the job ...and you can’t get by the fact that the thread in the nut that goes on the stud is the weakest link as you put it in the torque value of stud and nut combo ...not the threads in the hole that’s in the block ...like what happens when a bolt is used ...and yes I agree on stress applied and metal stretching ...this is where smart hands perfect torque ...impact wrenching ..and the skill to bring to there best all come in play ..once gone to far it’s all downhill ....these things are learned only by people’s talent of there skill used and experience ....this is not a thread about studs and bolts ..I’ve got that down ..I’m not using studs at all ..it’s about head gaskets lack of heat transfer and goo gasket melt away till gasket blows ...

As for the head gasket deal this topic is about ...yes I agree there would be a drop in compression..and I don’t know the impact there but obviously the compression and vacuum level I’m at completely makes stock carbs unusable ...I’m not sure I’ll use the sandwich gasket set up ...this whole thread is about trying to weigh the gamble ..as mentioned earlier ...cosmetic gasket company makes head gaskets in this fashion as high end head gaskets for special purposes ...with only difference I see is there’s use only on fire ring ...but there gaskets can be 120/1000th thick Dave ..so some engineers are actually producing this tech right now ...
 
Well I’ve been researching things a lot on the head gasket deal ...just not many motors made to where the head gasket is exposed to the water jacket ....this causes lack of support and it’s constantly being flushed with coolant and washing away of goo gasket ...heat transfer is mostly through the goo gasket constantly wearing it away softening around fire fire ring and failure ...in a motor like mine this can come quick ...from the extra heat and pressure from the hi output motor ...I’ve got another ideal cooking in my mind ...I’m thinking about cutting the copper gasket down into the water jackets and around the cylinders to keep coolant off the gasket as much as possible...it will still have coolant feeds to the head in it like the gasket does too ....then just use one gasket for head ....this should transfer a lot of heat into the water jacket through the copper ....
:headscratch: thoughts ?
 
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