new to me oldwing 77 1000

[joedrum]

its a cam sweep it rides the rotor

 

[mwbill37841]

:whistling: and i thought you had just made a better mouse trap that worked. :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

That felt gets shmeered with a dabba points grease to lube the thingamagiggy on the points that rides on the cam.

 

[mwbill37841]

just like the ones they used in cars when they were building them right

 

[joedrum]

yes

 

[joedrum]

okay pics sorta suck im having trouble with the computer on the desk or the one between my ears...enough said there

the coils after clean up and inspection of the 35yr old coils shoed no cracks and better than most ...

the plug ends were a different matter one broke all to pieces ...the brass plug connectors after unscrewing revild totalcorrosion on the inside where resistor seats ...all were cleaned ...resistors look good ...put all back together ...may later if things work mod this to no resistors....but for now just want it running ...

mounted coils on 77 pluged in wires ....all in the proper way ballist inline as stock...

installed machanical advace in this piticular deal dyn rotor taken out ...stock cam rotor for points requires disassembly of advance to get the lip below the advancer arms ...sheesh only stabed myself once just bearly taken c clips out and back on i consider this a wound free deal only a drop of blood :mrgreen:

insall on cam stem on head ...point plat installed once installed wher it look right the notches close to notches on house and plate scews snug up turn cam to hughest point on the left pickup ...and on mine set it at 14/1000ths

then turn to f1 firing mark its right in the middle of f mark...hooked home made test light to left pickup

have to go post later to finish

 

[mwbill37841]

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

 

[joedrum]

okay im back after looking at a 1200 project bike..

okay now the f1 mark is line up on motor casing take a test light ...mines home with a striped wire rather long strip ..spit in half and twisted around outside socket of 12 volt lite bulb and taped ...other end alligator clip thats is ...anway clip alligator clip to spring on left points then touch bulb end on motor with key on . it will probably be lit up turn plate ... in my case counter clockwise till light gose out ...then clockwise till light just comes on ....its set on that side ...

now high side the cam on the right side points and set at 14/1000th....turn crank to f2 mark on crank ...then hook up test light to point strap and bulb grounded to point houding ...mine did not light up and was way off when i turned it to where it did light up ,,,so from there i could see the subase had to go as far as it could go seperating the two set of points .....still did not light up right on mark from there i tighten the sub base on thepoints ....and here where i do things different than most ...i then put the f2 mark right on motor caseing and then loosen points with light hooked up and set the point till the light came on perfectly at f2 ....then turn to high spot on cam and check clearence ...in my case it was perfect at 14/1000 ....

then cleaned things up alittle and tried it started right up ....and then as always im batting 1000 here oil was everywhere from me not putting timing cap back on ....shortly after cleaning up mess ...ran again just to run out of gas ...thats where im at today meant to get gas but took no can ...so maybe tomarrow i can get it dialed in right ...the trick is to not loosen things to much keep things snug but still movable to set thing easyer and without much varience when tightening scews ...that pretty much all screws involded from start to finish ...when all it it takes is a twist to tighten....hope its understandable :hihihi: :mrgreen:

once i got it my head about how i was going to do this after me and V talk about it ...i went outside and did everything from start to finish on point setting in about five minutes only whil V waited to hear from me ....it was sure footed ...free of bo bos and was fast ...iwas pleased ...wat to much bs in most info on this to make it a nightmare :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[mwbill37841]

sounds lihe it's comming together.still hanging in there too.just decidid not to be in a hurry.

 

[joedrum]

well finaly put some gas in ...and ran it long enough to fine the sweet spot ....running rather decent now ....but then seen a little smoke and notice the wires in the selenoid area were heat up and the socket there basicaly fryed up ....so turned it off and disconnected the negitive cable on the battery ....so now i need to redo some wiring ...

but i was quite pleased with how the points plate dial in on the new point and condenser install and condenser ground mod i did :mrgreen:

 

[backlander]

:good: That's good deal, joe. I'm allergic to walking too. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[joedrum]

in the next move to change the name of the exercise bike ,,,the one that leaves fine but never comes home ...im putting in a ignition relay to short cut the wiring for the ignition in hopes this fixes it ...have it maped out but need a few connectors to do it ....now that the meet and greet is over its time to get after the bike projects :mrgreen:

 

[joedrum]

okay this is getting crazy for me now ....putting a relay in the 77 has been a hassle so far without success yet ...75 -77 1000s have no scew terminals on the coils and the ballist are not connected to the coils directly they are hooked up after the keyswitch ...when key is on it gose to ballist then to kill switch then to starter switch and out of it to the coils .....where the black and white wire has doulble end connector to go to each coil .....i unpluged this connection and use the output to trigger the relay ...it triggers the relay good in the ignition on starter button out possition and also button in possition when starting ....the relay out possition from starter seleniod gose to the black and white connectors on each coil .....now when i try to start it it will crank in the button in possistion but dies imediately when i let the starter button out to the run possition ......with the way its hook up i cant see how the ballist possition run part will work without going through the switches im trying to eliminate .....so im thinking of going from the ballist hot possition and running a wire there to where the relay hot and coil wires are at as this is the only way to bypass the switches except the ignition key ...or maybe find the ignition keyed hot and use it as trigger for relay ...this all seems good to me but it dosnt follow any info i have read on it ...could all the info be wrong or is it me im not sure any input is welcome :help: :mrgreen:

 

[joedrum]

well i moved the trigger wire over to the ignition key on hot ...that work as trigger as i thought .....still same problem not working button out on starter .....now need to get fire through the ballist resistor to coils minus switches ...man it starting to look like the starter button might be bad and this darn 77 has wires through the bars and almost no access to starter button at all :cheeky: :Awe: :builder: :help:

 

[backlander]

I was looking at the wire diagram for the 77 and the free or "out" position of starter button should maintain power to resistors then to kill switch, then whi/blk to coils when kill is in run position, so I think I agree with your diagnosis, starter button not maintaining connection when released. I think? :headscratch: :smilie_happy: Spray the heck out of it with contact cleaner and work the dickens out of it and spray it again, might go to working. Worth a shot.

 

[joedrum]

oh i have been ...this darn wiring is buried in the bars ...this bike is still the exercise bike even when its sitting still :headscratch: :fiddle: :evil: :cheeky: :help: :rant: :whip: :hihihi:

 

[backlander]

Ok, back to basics. kill switch to #86 term on relay, ground to #85 term., direct power thru 10 amp fuse to #30 term, power to coils from #87 terminal. Correct?

 

[dan filipi]

That sounds right backlander.

I have a relay wiring diagram around here somewhere...............be right back.

 

[slabghost]

Ok, back to basics. kill switch to #86 term on relay, ground to #85 term., direct power thru 10 amp fuse to #30 term, power to coils from #87 terminal. Correct?

except that "power to coils" must be power to ballast. If you go directly to coils that bypasses the ballast and ignitors. If it runs it will arc points or fry the dyna if the ballast isn't included.

 

[dan filipi]

Here's a good one.

Have a look at this and I'll be back after looking at the wiring diagram to put a wire color to the relay post number.